Andros' mashed potatoes are made from real potatoes; too bad they're not hotter. Canned corn serves as "the vegetable"--an unfortunate choice for this already starchy meal. Oh well, at least they give you cranberry jelly.

The pork chops are large and pan-fried, tasty and not too tough. My dining accomplice eats them with relish. I must say his French fries are good, too.

We are slumped in our booth, stuffed to the gills when our waitress comes to clear our unemptied plates. "How about some nice rice pudding?" I remind myself I'm on the job and sit up. "What else do you have?" I ask. "Just rice pudding," she replies. I tell her I'll have some.

The pudding comes with whipped topping and nutmeg sprinkled on top. I can't eat more than a few spoonfuls, but it's good and liquidy.

Our meal at Andros, the best of the three, sets us back $22, with tax and tip. It could have run around $17, but--I confess--I had to order a Greek salad, too. And it was good! Well marinated in red wine vinegar and olive oil, this salad features real calamata olives and lots of creamy feta cheese. Mmmmm-mmmmm, just like Pizza King on Broadway and 76th Street in NYC used to make it.

The Country Corner, 70 West Warner, Chandler, 786-0195. Hours: 7 a.m. to 8 p.m., Monday through Saturday; 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., Sunday.

New Yorker Family Restaurant, 8002 North 27th Avenue, Phoenix, 995-8787. Hours: 5:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday through Friday; 6 a.m. to 9 p.m., Saturday and Sunday.

Andros Restaurant, 8040 East McDowell, Scottsdale, 945-9573. Hours: 5:30 a.m. to 11 p.m., seven days a week.

My accomplice is a meat loaf-loving guy whose wife continues to resist his exhortations to stick her hands into raw hamburger.

The shrimp Creole is the kind your mom would have made with a recipe culled from Woman's Day had you grown up inland.

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