Biting the Big Apple: A trip back to New York always produces three effects: I'm civil to relatives I fled from 25 years ago, I hang out with old pals and relive my youth, and I spend an unconscionable amount of money eating out.
I still don't get along with my cousin Susan, and it was great hitting the racetracks with Harvey. But a meal at Union Square Cafe was definitely the highlight of my visit.
This ten-year-old restaurant, with its wildly inventive menu, has a reputation as one of the country's best dining spots. I can see why.
I was lucky even to get in. Since I didn't call the place until the week before I planned to visit , a reservation was out of the question. But I was told if I could find a spot at the bar, they'd somehow serve me dinner.
Well, the gods of restaurant dining must have watched over us the night we dropped by. Somehow, two bar seats opened up just as we arrived. The staff unfolded some cloth napkins on the bar, simulating as best it could a linen tablecloth.
There was nothing simulated about the meal, however. We started off with pici ai carciofini, fresh, spaghettilike pasta draped with tomatoes, artichokes and pepperoncini. It's a tasty way to part with $9.
But the starter was only a warm-up to the exquisite main dishes. Words are my business, but I'm not sure I can find the right ones to describe the grilled marinated filet mignon of tuna ($27). I guess "perfect" will do. It's a thick slab of moist, shimmeringly translucent fish, barely cooked on the outside, pink on the inside.
Alongside were two of the best accompaniments I've had the pleasure of devouring in a long time. First, there was a heady mix of eggplant, sticky rice and fava beans. Then I had the good sense to order an … la carte platter of polenta creamed with mascarpone cheese, studded with toasted walnuts and crumbled gorgonzola ($4.50). Wow.
We also made short work of a memorable daily special, braised lamb shank Moghul style ($23). The butter-soft lamb is marinated in yogurt and Indian spices, and coated with raisins, pistachios and smoky roasted eggplant. To gild this lily, we demolished a side of roasted asparagus ($6.50), doused with olive oil and balsamic vinegar and topped with shavings of reggiano Parmigiano cheese.
Desserts are just as mesmerizing, as anyone who's had the good fortune to spoon into the warm banana tart ($7) will report. It's loaded with homemade honey vanilla ice cream and a macadamia nut brittle.
Any normal person would have left the restaurant at this point. Not me. I had to have a glass of Sauternes. Not any Sauternes, but Chƒteau d'Yquem, the world's greatest (and most expensive) dessert wine. The cost of this indulgence? Twenty-five bucks. But I didn't care about the money--I was just thrilled to find a restaurant that made this experience possible.
Union Square Cafe is at 21 East 16th Street, just off Fifth Avenue. Call 1-212-243-4020.
