Vat City

Four Peaks Brewing Company, 1340 East Eighth Street, Tempe, 480-303-9967. Hours: Lunch and Dinner, Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.; Sunday, 1 to 11 p.m.

In spring, the poet says, "a young man's fancy turns to thoughts of love." But once spring turns to summer, just about everyone's fancy turns to thoughts of beer.

That's because from Memorial Day to Columbus Day, it's too darned hot for loving, or just about anything else. Sure, it would be great to spend June, July and August hiking the high country or hanging 10 off the La Jolla shore. But unless you bought a thousand shares of Microsoft in 1987, or sued McDonald's after spilling hot coffee on your lap, that sort of summer getaway will probably remain a heat-induced delusion.

But now that the Valley has finally caught the brew-pub wave, at least it's no longer delusional to dream about washing down decent pub grub with a cold, fresh microbrew.

Along with freeways, Starbucks and major league baseball, it took a long time for brew pubs to come to town. A decade ago, you could have counted all of them on the fingers of one hand, and still have had enough digits left over to play the trumpet. These days, you'd have to take off your socks to do the addition.

Four Peaks Brewing Company has been worth waiting for. This place has everything you'd want in a brew pub: a wonderful setting, vibrant atmosphere, tempting food and first-rate homemade suds.

It's set in the backwaters of Tempe, on a quiet street far from the Mill Avenue bustle, housed in what used to be the Pacific Creamery, one of the city's oldest buildings. Inside, it is cavernous, like a warehouse, and the tall ceiling and brick walls give Four Peaks a charming, old-fashioned feel. Huge, gleaming vats, standing like sentinels, provide a more up-to-date touch.

The televisions over the bar are tuned to sports, the walls are lined with vintage photos and the music system blasts out today's hits. However, out on the patio, where most of the tables are, it's a good deal more peaceful. Strung with lights and cooled by a very effective misting system, the patio is where you'll want to people-watch and linger over a brew.

Four Peaks attracts a young crowd, mostly twenty- and thirtysomethings, with a few graying baby boomers rounding out the mix. What the place doesn't seem to attract are rowdy, underage students with fake IDs, looking to get sloshed. On one visit, I came here with my 18-year-old daughter, whom I dropped off and sent ahead to get a table, while I looked for a parking spot on a busy Friday night. To its credit, the staff wouldn't let her in until I arrived.

Let's spread the credit around even more.
First, give the kitchen its due. The menu pretty much focuses on standard brew-pub staples: deep-fried munchies, sandwiches, burgers and pizza. (Occasional dinner specials, like enchiladas, salmon and pasta, are also available.) But while the fare's narrow range isn't very surprising, the quality is. Several items are worth coming here for, even if you plan to drink nothing stronger than a Diet Coke.

That's certainly true of the Arizona chicken rolls, a commendable mix of poultry, mild chile and cheese stuffed into pastry dough, and then crisply fried. A sweet jalapeno dip adds to the pleasure. Cheese puffs, deep-fried balls thickened with potato, are another enjoyable nosh. Meaty chicken wings, breaded and coated with spicy, Thai-style seasonings, will raise a sweat, if you somehow haven't already raised one. And while the spanakopita won't remind anyone of the premier Greek versions--it's too heavy--this phyllo-wrapped, dill-scented blend of spinach, cheese and pine nuts is still undeniably flavorful.

The hefty sandwiches are dynamite, especially the three made with the homemade beer bread, which, texture-wise, resembles a slightly chewy, puffed-up tortilla. The Italian beef model is fabulous: roast beef, mozzarella and sauteed onions, peppers and mushrooms rolled up in beer bread lined with garlic honey mayonnaise. The chicken sandwich is just as fetching: a Mediterranean combination of white meat, artichoke hearts, sauteed veggies and cheese moistened in a cucumber sauce. And even meat-eaters will salute the veggie sandwich, put together with portabella mushrooms, artichoke, veggies and cheese, zipped up with pesto sauce.

Though not quite in the same league, the Reuben sandwich is praiseworthy, too--decent corned beef, beer-braised sauerkraut and Swiss cheese on marble rye slathered with Thousand Island dressing. The sandwiches come with either pasta salad, fries or a house salad. The fries, hot and crispy, are the best choice.

The menu touts the pizza, boasting that the dough is made in-house. It's not an idle boast: This pizza is good enough to take business away from an Italian restaurant. We had the veggie model, 12 inches of artfully crafted happiness, accented with pesto and heaped with portabella mushrooms, spinach, artichoke hearts, tomatoes, feta and mozzarella.

In comparison to the sandwiches and pizza, the burger seems pretty tame. It's a half-pound of ground Black Angus, but maybe this meat is too lean. It could have been juicier and beefier.

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