By Heather Hoch
By Eric Schaefer
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By Heather Hoch and Lauren Saria
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Edward's of Scottsdale, 9619 North Hayden (Mountain View Plaza), Scottsdale, 480-9223567. Hours: Dinner, Monday through Saturday, 5 p.m. to close.
"There is no new thing under the sun," according to Ecclesiastes. So much for unerring Biblical certainty.
Obviously, the man has never been to Scottsdale. How else can you explain Edward's, a new restaurant that even the Good Book's prophets and wise men couldn't anticipate?
The press release says it all: Edward's is "the only African American-owned upscale restaurant in the Valley serving exquisite Southern U.S.A. and Northern Italian cuisine."
When I first read this, I rubbed my eyes with disbelief. For a few anxious moments, I feared some dreaded form of "fusion" cooking. I cringed, imagining the likes of Southern-fried lasagna, pork chop parmigiana and fettuccine alla chitterlings.
Fortunately, the marriage between Northern Italian and Southern U.S.A. cooking is never consummated. Instead, the two cuisines simply co-habit chastely, side-by-side, on Edward's bill of fare.
That means that on one part of the menu you'll find crab cakes, collard greens and sweet-potato pie. On the other, there's carpaccio, veal Marsala and tiramisu.
How did this unlikely pairing come about? The owner had operated a Southern-style restaurant back East. When he decided to open a place here, he took over a location that had housed three Italian restaurants over the past decade: Franco's Trattoria, Va Bene and, most recently, Il Palio. Impressed with Il Palio's chef, Edward's owner kept him on, teaching him how to batter a catfish, candy a yam and whip up a peach cobbler. Lawdy mama mia -- only in America.
While the concept is wacky, Edward's turns out to be a fun, casual place to eat. It's true that neither the down-home platters nor the Italian dishes do anything to advance the culinary arts. You also won't find any of our town's hip, pony-tailed, cell-phoned trendoids here -- the patrons are sedate folks who enjoy a quiet, relaxed dinner. But Edward's has genuine charm, the kind that should resonate with neighborhood types turned off by $25 entrees and Scottsdale glitz.
This storefront hasn't changed much over the years. It's still very small. Edward's continues to get mileage out of photos of Italy hung by the three previous tenants. Black leatherette booths still ring the room. The tables are covered with linen, while an overflowing bowl of silk flowers by the entrance adds a note of color and elegance. One new touch: Jerry Lewis, golfer Tom Lehman and one of the Drifters have scrawled their testimonials and signatures on the whitewashed walls.
A basket of good French bread takes care of immediate hunger pangs. A cruet of olive oil and a bowl of grated cheese enable you to fashion your own dip.
But you may be better off paying for the outstanding bruschetta. Is it the fresh summer tomatoes? Is it the heap of garlic and spices? Who knows? We could do only so much analyzing before the bruschetta swiftly disappeared from view.
The other Italian starters aren't quite as appealing. Shrimp scampi brings five medium-size crustaceans, done up in olive oil, wine and garlic. They're tasty enough, but the $8.95 tag seems a bit steep. Carpaccio, thinly sliced raw beef drizzled with olive oil and lemon, is scrumptious. But the kitchen doesn't top it with traditional reggiano-parmigiano cheese, instead using an inferior variety. The plate was also compromised by greens several days past their prime. In the restaurant business, like everything else, the devil is in the details, and the carpaccio's cheese and salad details definitely need attention.
The Italian soup, stracciatella, would benefit from a little less seasoning attention. It's an Italian version of Chinese egg drop soup, zipped up with parsley. But an overdose of salt kept it from reaching full potential.
A couple of Southern starters suggest that the chef is a quick learner. Louisiana sweet sausage turns out to be kielbasa smoothed with a brown sugar sauce, served over rice. What can be bad? The hearty gumbo, a thick mix of chicken, sausage, shrimp and rice, somehow manages to be mild and flavorful at the same time.
You'd expect the kitchen to be at the top of its form with the Italian entrees. Though nothing is really memorable, I think most folks will be satisfied.
Take the rigatoni pollo affumicato, pasta tossed with smoked chicken and mushrooms in a rich cream sauce. This dish is earthy, intense and filling. Another pasta platter, linguini with shrimp in a diavola sauce, also hits the mark. It comes with eight firm shrimp, and the not-too-spicy diavola still sports enough of a cayenne snap to get your attention.
Two veal dishes display similar vigor. Vitello alla veneta is quite good, veal medallions moistened in a lovely lemon wine sauce and boosted by garlic, capers and a bit of artichoke. A side of spaghetti, in a light sauce festooned with diced tomatoes, only adds to the pleasure. Veal Marsala is also full of big flavors, courtesy of sautéed wild mushrooms and the fortified Sicilian wine.
But when I return to Edward's, it won't be for the Italian fare. After all, there are scores of restaurants in this tony zip code offering commendable pasta and veal dishes. On the other hand, in this neighborhood you have as much chance running across soul-inspired food as you do stumbling on a Kwanzaa block party.