Little House on the Desert

The kindness of the waiters saves us again when I order the truly awful house smoked pork chop ($25.95). This dish is not simply a misstep; it's a catapult to the death. I understand that mesquite is one of our most strongly flavored woods, but this poor chop has been so grossly over-smoked that it's inedible. The first bite sends a charcoal briquette to the back of my throat. And while the acrid fumes decrease the farther into the two-inch chop I dig, my senses are too bludgeoned to take more than a few bites. Adding insult is the smoky prosciutto-infused risotto underneath. Fuchsia-tone braised apples and red cabbage are more like pickles and offer no relief.

But our waiter is professional and sincere, offering me another entree when he sees my distress. I decline, and I can see this bothers him; can't he offer us drinks, dessert, anything? He promises to tell the chef to test the smoke levels, and I have no doubt he does so immediately.

Lokey

Artistic crab presentation is just one attraction of well-manicured Lon's.

Location Info

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Lon's at the Hermosa

5532 N. Palo Cristi Road
Paradise Valley, AZ 85253

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Paradise Valley

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More About

• Casa Hermosa
• Patrick Poblete
• Paradise Valley (Arizona)
• Eating Out
• Main Dish Recipes

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I console myself with the pastry chef's sampler ($14.95 for two). What a treat, to indulge in small portions of lemon crème brûlée in a crispy ravioli pocket; chocolate mousse studded with toffee, mocha and meringue; plum, raspberry and macadamia nut upside-down cake; warm French apple galette with cinnamon stick ice cream; vanilla bean ice cream in espresso sauce; and strawberries dipped in white and dark chocolate tuxedos. It's a huge plate smattered with luscious diced fruit, drizzled with chocolate sauce and dressed with mint leaves and cookie curls. Capped with steaming cups of rich, black coffee, we find the selection ample for one evening's party of five.

It's the perfect ending to an all-American experience: indulgent food and lots of it. Julia would be so proud.