Pho Speed Ahead

A A A Comments By Carey Sweet Thursday, Mar 30 2000

Pho Dac Biet Thap Cam ($5.55) combines tripe, tendon, flank, eye of round and meatballs. It's no better, but no worse, than Pho Bang's version, although one unforgivable sin occurs -- our Xalach Dia arrives sans cilantro. I prefer Mi Xa Xiu Tom ($5.15), a light broth of clear, gummy bear-textured noodles with shrimp and pork.

While Hu Tiu Bo Kho ($4.85) translates as an uncomplicated beef stew and rice noodle soup, it's actually a little strange. There's no stew per se, just overcooked beef, veggies and Pho broth, but there's an undertone to it that's almost like stroganoff. I don't like it.

Lokey

Don't come to Pho Bang for ambiance, just fabulous soup.

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Twelve bite-size nuggets of Cha Gio ($3.65) are overly dry. We wrap their starchy, fried casings in greens and herbs and dip them in sweet sauce, which helps. A better choice is Goi Cuon ($4.55), six burrito-size rolls of rice paper stuffed with vermicelli, whole shrimp, lettuce, carrot, bean sprouts, pickles and sliced pork. The bland flavors call for an aggressive sauce, provided by garlicky hoisin studded with peanuts.

While I can make do with Dong Phuong, I'd rather get Pho Bang for my buck.

New Times restaurant critic Carey Sweet has been writing about food and dining the Valley for 10 years. Contact her at 602-744-6558 or online at carey.sweet@newtimes.com