The place is promised to be so happening and so sophisticated-spiritual that the press kit I received contains a bizarre bag of "harmony rocks," representing earth, the first of the restaurant's "four ancient elements." Apparently, the new property offers not only high-end resort accommodations and a spa, but a dining experience that celebrates "earth, fire, wind and water." Oh yeah, and food.
The concept sounds pretty cutting-edge, but are Valley residents ready for a favorite Southwestern landmark -- dating to the 1950s -- to go over-the-top harmonic Asian? This place has a highly genteel past, after all. Designed by a protégé of Frank Lloyd Wright, the private membership tennis resort was a favorite of celebrities, including Edgar Bergen, Johnny Carson and Liza Minelli. For the more recent generation, Gardiner's was a high-end tennis spa, a top pick for upscale parties ($10,000 minimum) and a classic restaurant with which to impress guests.
When elements opens in March, however, we'll be looking at a seasonal "all-American menu accented with the flavors of Asia." This means weird blends such as foie gras with Chinese five spice, blood orange glaze and mango relish; and more approachable favorites like grilled sirloin with bleu cheese baked onions and roasted shiitake mushrooms. That's strange enough for a restaurant, and even more daring a concept to carry an entire resort. Yet, as the script with my harmony rocks waxes philosophic: "Somewhere between magic and mystical, legend and myth, there lies a power within each of us so compelling, it knows no limits, boundaries or frailties." Whatever. Stop me now, but I'm envisioning meals served by waiters practicing tai chi.
Rubin Fanwhich: Esquire's December 2000 issue names Lenard Rubin's Medizona one of the 22 best restaurants in the country, and the only winner from Arizona.
Esquire gushes that "Rubin works a Mediterranean palette with finesse and daring . . . the interaction of such dishes can be risky, but in Rubin's hands they are sure bets to impress guests who love intense, gutsy cooking."
Aw, shucks.