Snooze Flash

Nothing new at Suroeste Grille

Arizona's dining scene is exploding at record levels, bringing unheard of variety and competition to every corner of the Valley. Last year, in fact, Arizona experienced the nation's third-largest increase in restaurant revenues, and is projected to be among the country's top three again in 2001.

With more than 8,300 restaurants in the state, any restaurant hoping to make a name for itself these days has to be something pretty special. Unfortunately, Suroeste Grille, opened last fall in Ahwatukee, brings nothing new to our plates.

As little as a few years ago, Suroeste could have been a player, jostling primarily with Grace Inn and Valle Luna Mexican Restaurant for area diners' dollars. But today's stakes are much higher. From upscale Tomaso's and Va Bene to pack-'em-in steakhouses like Outback to pseudo but highly popular "exotic" places like Bahama Breeze, the Ahwatukee 'burb is booming with plenty of new restaurants from which to choose.

Suroeste offers a highly predictable menu and sleepy presentation.
Annette Callahan
Suroeste offers a highly predictable menu and sleepy presentation.

Details

Appetizers:
Eggplant roulade: $7.25
Portabella: $7.95

Entrees:
Mardi Gras pasta: $12.95
Southwestern chicken: $12.95
Jalapeño halibut: $16.95

Desserts:
Sweet dreams: $6.25
Tiramisu: $5.25

480-961-9350. Hours: Lunch and dinner, Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; dinner only, Saturday, 4 to 10 p.m.

4747 East Elliot, Suite 23

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As it is, it's doubtful that Suroeste's highly familiar menu and sleepy, predictable presentation will break through the clutter. Meaning "southwest" in Spanish, the restaurant's menu has little in the way of Southwestern, nothing in the way of Mexican, and hardly anything that makes it any different from dozens of other eateries within a few short miles. Instead, it's primarily continental American with an Italian bent. Suroeste resonates of Chili's cuisine -- yes, a little nicer, yet also more expensive, topping out at $18.25 for an okay filet mignon served with mashed potatoes and vegetables but no soup or salad.

It's likely that Suroeste's owners are counting on jumping on the area's growth bandwagon, capturing the many thousands of drivers exiting the I-10 as they enter the world's largest cul-de-sac community. Elliot, Warner, Ray and Chandler roads provide the only ingress and egress to Ahwatukee, home to some 100,000 residents. Suroeste has landed a prime location, to be sure, directly next door to a Safeway on the corner of 48th Street and Elliot. Financial partners are Ken and Joy Karns, Ahwatukee residents for more than two decades. And they're supporting the dream of their daughter, Megan Haddad, and her husband, Suroeste executive chef and menu designer Nicholas Haddad.

On looks alone, Suroeste should wow the crowds. A bar welcomes diners, flanked by a row of full-service tables. No noise concerns, here though -- soft jazz plays in the background and all but disappears when guests venture through a doorway into the private, adjacent dining room. An extensive collection of original art selected by Phoenix's Quantum Art is set among taupe walls and soft glowing lights. (See a piece you like? It can be added to your bill.)

Keep your eyes focused on the walls, though -- that's the only real creativity you'll discover. Tried-and-true visual tricks are in evidence otherwise: Plates uniformly come rim-dusted with teeny chops of bell peppers, red cabbage and herbs. On a single plate, the look is fine -- when it shows up on all appetizers and entrees, it's tired.

A few menu items are notable, including Suroeste's terrific homemade desserts. Our party of four has its hands -- and mouths -- full with two selections, a cake called sweet dreams, and tiramisu. Sweet dreams is a monument to chocolate, moistening an enormous brownie with espresso and fudge, baking it to an expertly intermittent crust on the edges, topping it with a lavish scoop of vanilla bean ice cream and more fudge. Tiramisu comes in a slab the size of a paperback romance novel and offers similar escapist delights with mascarpone and fluffy ladyfingers and -- this is nice -- a barely-there level of rum. Sure, we're twitching as we leave, great gasps of sugar spasming our limbs, but we love it.

Southwestern chicken's another good choice, due to careful pan searing of the juicy, nine-ounce breast and opaque veil of breading and seasoning. Yet zesty peach salsa is just chunks of fruit with nothing to break it up, white rice is only an airy distraction on the fork, and chopped zucchini is utterly bland until ample salt and pepper are added. Then, the veggies taste of -- salt and pepper.

The quality of the fish in Suroeste's halibut entree is acceptable -- the white, flaky fillet is properly firm and fresh. But any supposed "jalapeño flair" isn't there, and more wallflower rice and vegetables make this dish strictly dull Carnival cruise cuisine. The ample cut of salmon plated and plunked on our snow-white tablecloth is fine, too, even under its bagel-like crust of white and black sesame seeds. No one's gone nuts with the mild honey glaze, and a bed of sautéed spinach adds much-appreciated life to our here-it-comes-again zucchini and (this time) salty wild rice.

From there, dinner at Suroeste is downhill, collapsed by too much been there, done that, and too little follow-through on menu promises. Doing restaurant reviews can be fun as foodies get absorbed in the boisterous character of the food, but here, we're forced to rely on our own personalities. As delightful as my tablemates and I are, it's difficult to find much thrill in an evening out featuring such average fare.

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