I'll Fake Manhattan

There's something in the water, people say -- that special fluid that flows from New York City's municipal taps. The crystal liquid is so revered that it's been marketed on a retail level. Tim Zagat, publisher of the Zagat Surveys, says he'd rather have New York City water than the fancy bottled kinds pushed by many high-end restaurants. In early January, meanwhile, an art exhibition opened in Manhattan, showcasing, what else, the New York City Water Supply.

Erik Guzowski

Traditional New York-style bagels are best left uneaten at Kashman's Place.

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Kashman's Place

23425 N. Scottsdale Road
Scottsdale, AZ 85255

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: North Scottsdale

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Frankie's omelet: $7.95
Essex Street scramble: $7.50
Smoked salmon platter: $7.95
Tarragon chicken salad: $6.50
Thanksgiving turkey sandwich: $5.95
Philly beef and Brie: $6.50
Sonoran chicken: $6.50

23425 North Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 480-585-6221. Hours: Breakfast and lunch, 5:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily.

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More About

• Nancy Kashman
• Tim Zagat
• Play-Doh
• Eating Out
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Big Apple water also is credited for the authentic flavor and unique nuance found in that city's bagels. The beverage is so important that the owner of New York's legendary Karsh's Deli includes it as a critical recipe ingredient. And it's such a must that Steve and Nancy Kashman, owners of the new Kashman's Place in Pinnacle Peak, have fashioned a specially filtered and chilled water system, designed to mimic the Back East beverage and to feed their cafe's bagel production.

It's a classy touch. But it's also one of the few things to inspire a true New York-style deli experience here. Because while Kashman's boasts that its bagels are five-borough born, the rest of the menu is firmly planted in upper-class Scottsdale.

Tofu spread? Singapore salad? Autumn pumpkin soup? Pennsylvania baked ham and Brie with champagne mustard on a warm baguette? A clever "power bagel," even, the multi-grain protein dough studded with dried fruits and nuts? This ain't the N.Y. 'hood I know.

Kashman's also isn't particularly showstopping -- most dishes, including the bagels, don't break into the realm of exciting. But for this area, which has been lacking such a casual, neighborhood-friendly restaurant, it does just fine. Being a bargain is a benefit, for sure -- the most expensive items on the menu are an $8.50 avocado salad, and a Greek salad, both topped with grilled chicken breast. Most choices hover around six bucks.

Going by tradition, it's hard to fault the size of Kashman's bagels, I suppose. They're little. As was the original New York bagel, which weighed in at about two ounces. Yet those were street snacks -- larger bagels were called "bulls" and were especially made for restaurants and delicatessens. I'd rather be fed some bull.

But nothing explains the leaden texture of this cafe's babies. New York's tap water is soft, carrying a relatively small amount of dissolved minerals much like mountain water. It's a bit sweeter than found elsewhere, because it's from rainwater. It's said to be what produces the unique crust of a bagel, poaching the uncooked dough in slightly simmering water before baking it in a hot oven. The water bath reduces starch, tightens the skin, eliminates expansion and makes the resulting bread chewy.

Steamed bagels? Leave that to Lender's, and folks who don't mind the rubbery, Play-Doh texture of these impostors. Kashman's makes its dough from scratch, then boils and bakes the bagels on the premises. With all these elements in place, then, I don't get why, on repeated samplings, I have to work my jaw overtime. This isn't chewy, this is tough.

Kashman's is small, too. Just a dozen or so blue bistro tables are set inside, with a handful more on an umbrella-decked patio out front. A full wall of mirrors makes the place look huge, a neat trick. A small selection of green salads perch in glass display cases, keeping company with fresh-baked chocolate chip cookies, cinnamon rolls and muffins (don't miss the killer blueberry).

Typical bagel sandwiches don't offer much early morning thrill, but omelets are satisfying. Frankie's omelet, blending three eggs with Nova smoked salmon and sautéed onions, is a nice choice. The Essex Street scramble charms salami lovers with chunks of the grilled meat, potato, onion, bell pepper and Cheddar. I also appreciate the composition of the Mediterranean omelet -- fresh spinach, tomato, red onion and feta are all in perfect balance. But what's listed as sides of potato pie are simply seasoned, roasted new potatoes, and if we want cream cheese on our bagel, it's extra.

No self-respecting deli would ignore a smoked salmon platter, and Kashman's nails it. Silky Nova fish is wonderful, displayed with sliced tomato, capers, red onion lemon, bagel and cream cheese on a bed of lettuce. Topnotch stuff.

Salads are pleasing, too, including the Singapore model. Grilled chicken strips take top marquee billing over mixed greens, red cabbage, cilantro, bean sprouts, shaved carrots and crispy noodles splashed with a refreshingly light sesame ginger vinaigrette.

Tarragon chicken salad with poached pear isn't a typical deli nosh, but it works for me, topping field greens with a fan of soft, sweet fruit and a scoop of marinated chicken breast chunks tossed with chewy currants, tarragon, celery and scallions in herb mayonnaise. A dusting of shaved almonds adds some crunch, but I yearn for a slab of crusty bread alongside to help cut the too-sugary raspberry vinaigrette.

Meeting your daily vegetable requirement isn't tough with Kashman's signature chopped salad. This isn't your everyday dish, prettily pairing diced baby string beans, tomato, peas, corn, jicama, carrots, red and yellow bell pepper, red onion and a nicely restrained balsamic vinaigrette under a sprinkle of dry Parmesan. For two bucks more, add a petite mound of tarragon chicken salad, a few strips of grilled chicken breast, or, my pick, "Willy's" albacore tuna salad. Typically tame tuna is enlivened with just enough mayo, plus dill, celery and red onion.