I'll Fake Manhattan

Scottsdale meets the Big Apple in a deli that is neither here nor there, but a nosh in-between

One place where Kashman's cuts through the culinary clutter is with its homemade soups (check out the free samples!). Two choices are offered daily, including excellent New Orleans corn and crab bisque, matzo ball and onion with shaved Parmesan. Double beef chili is a delight, too, plunking a modest amount of steak and ground beef in a tomatoey broth with pinto beans, Cheddar and a side of bagel chips.

While I expect heftier sandwiches from any place with a New York deli theme, it's hard to complain given the fresh ingredients and pricing (sandwiches include coleslaw or chopped salad). Buffalo chicken is good stuff, marinating strips with a pleasing vinegary finish. And though I don't taste the promised bleu cheese dressing, the chopped celery adds welcome tart crunch against chewy baguette.

Brie, a chief component of Kashman's take on a Philly beef, is detectable, but too stingy on what's otherwise a satisfying mound of good quality grilled, shaved roast beef draped with grilled red onions, tricolor peppers and just a well-done whisper of stone ground mustard.

Traditional New York-style bagels are best left uneaten at Kashman's Place.
Erik Guzowski
Traditional New York-style bagels are best left uneaten at Kashman's Place.

Location Info

Map

Kashman's Place

23425 N. Scottsdale Road
Scottsdale, AZ 85255

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: North Scottsdale

Details

Frankie's omelet: $7.95
Essex Street scramble: $7.50
Smoked salmon platter: $7.95
Tarragon chicken salad: $6.50
Thanksgiving turkey sandwich: $5.95
Philly beef and Brie: $6.50
Sonoran chicken: $6.50

23425 North Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 480-585-6221. Hours: Breakfast and lunch, 5:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily.

There's nothing lacking from a Thanksgiving turkey sandwich, though, served on thick, pillowy sourdough. A more generous hand with the shaved meat would make a good thing better, but there's a lot to like in the spread of cranberry-apple chutney and Dijon, plus baby Swiss, romaine and sprouts.

But who's ladling out the egg salad on the Tribeca sandwich? There's barely a few tablespoons whimpering to be noticed on my choice of sesame seed bagel. Flavors are good, the finely chopped egg sprinkled with red bell pepper and scallions in a mustard-mayo blend, but the meager portion disappears under toppings of romaine, tomato, cucumber and sprouts.

Some of the finer things show up as daily specials. French toast is wonderful, dipping thick challah in a mildly sweet batter and stuffing it with lots of cream cheese. Sides of syrup, jam and fresh fruit round out the plate.

And though there's too much salt, corned beef hash is fine when mixed up with its side of three eggs cooked to order (expertly runny-when-cut-into over easy for me).

The low-key daily menu is more surprising as I peruse some of the "event" menus. For Passover, the kitchen offered homemade gefilte fish and potato kugel. For Easter, the chefs dished up thrilling sounding things like vegetarian eggs Benedict (poached eggs on a bagel with cream cheese, zucchini, mushrooms, spinach, tricolor peppers, onion and hollandaise sauce), plus a Monte Cristo (challah French toast stuffed with grilled ham and Swiss). I'd like to know that these treats were available whenever a craving hits, instead of luck of the draw.

Kashman's is an enjoyable little place to sit and erase the day's worries -- sipping on one of the many flavored coffees, teas, espressos and natural fruit juices offered by the friendly counter help. Snap open a paper (considerately provided by management), nibble on a monster muffin. Savor the flavor of New York's finest tap water.

Just don't forget that, really, you're still very much in Scottsdale.

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