Hangover and Out

As odd as it sounds, Mickey's food isn't trailer park enough

The sandwiches are a little more successful, at least better than Denny's for chasing too much beer. There's a lot to like about a gyro packed with grilled chicken breast strips, slabs of crisp cucumber, chopped lettuce and creamy garlic-cucumber sauce in fresh pita bread. It comes with lots of nice, skin-on shoestring fries.

"Jesus on the Mountain" is worthwhile munching, too, mounding hefty shavings of ham with crisp bacon, melted Cheddar, two fried eggs and potato chunks. The combination works because the ham is carved and grilled and comes on French toast that's fluffy, eggy and just this side of sweet. The roasted turkey is fine, too, with moist meat under melted Muenster with tomato and shredded cabbage in a light slick of "secret" Thousand Island-like sauce. What, no Miracle Whip?

Other basics have been messed with, and the results aren't worthwhile. Perfectly fine meat is pressed into a silly packet in the cheese steak, instead of the classic chopped style. Served on soft Texas toast, the textures of bread and beef are annoying, as is the coleslaw and Thousand Island dressing mixed with provolone, sautéed onions and jalapeños.

Mickey's Hangover is more about ambiance than 
edibles.
Erik Guzowski
Mickey's Hangover is more about ambiance than edibles.

Location Info

Map

Mickey's Hangover

7414 E. Arlington Road
Scottsdale, AZ 85250

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: North Scottsdale

Details

4312 North Brown, Scottsdale, 480-425-0111. Hours: Dinner and late night, Thursday through Saturday, 5 p.m. to 3 a.m.; Sunday through Wednesday, 5 p.m. to 2 a.m.

Appetizers:
Santa Fe rolls: $6
Zucchini fritters: $6
Mini chili cheese dogs: $8

Entrees:
Chicken gyro: $8
"Jesus on the Mountain": $9
Cheese steak: $9
Pesto Alfredo pizza: $10

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Our waitress warns that the hamburger comes on Texas toast. The bread isn't a problem; the burger is. The square lump we get also has been pressed into a creepy consistency that tastes like chewing on sofa cushions. Plus, it's been stuffed with French fries, making it too offbeat. The shredded cabbage and secret sauce don't belong on the shredded barbecue pork, either.

The pizza is the most puzzling dish. Pizza has got to be one of the world's most forgiving items to prepare -- even Chuck E. Cheese's gets repeat customers. But here, the 10-inch pies are different every time, without ever improving. A basic cheese and sauce is a sad, skinny pie barely dressed with overripe, almost burned Cheddar and watery sauce. Less offensive is the pesto Alfredo version, with fresh tomato slices and gooey mozzarella spilling over the edges. Mickey's Monster is better, if only for its bargain price tag, just $12 for an enormous pie piled with every topping offered. And the breakfast pizza gets points for creativity, delivering a crust layered with sausage, bacon, cheese and three sunny-side-up eggs.

Mickey's has a great idea in another one of its best sellers, the miniature hot dogs. But these hounds don't hunt. The three little-bitty buns are adorable, and the tiny bottle of Tabasco served alongside a great touch. But the ultra-pale pink dogs remind me of Vienna sausages given growth hormones. The salty, shredded Cheddar has gone dry, and can't be revived under the thimbles of damp, defeated chili.

It doesn't seem like it would take much to fix Mickey's. The kick-back club is entertaining enough that it's almost -- almost -- possible to forgive the food flops. Prices would make Al Bundy grin (half off at happy hour, even). And any place that serves eats until 2:30 a.m. deserves a second look.

But until product quality and consistency improve, this Hangover leaves me with a headache.<P

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