The Valley's restaurant industry suffered a significant loss November 4. Myron "Bubba" Stephenson, chef-owner of downtown Phoenix's popular Caribbean and Creole restaurant Chez Bubba's, passed away in his sleep that morning.
Stephenson's death resulted from coronary complications after he underwent a kidney transplant early last month. The surgery hoped to resolve almost 10 years of dialysis treatments. A private memorial service was held on Tuesday at Tovrea Mansion.
According to Stephenson's wife, Cheryl, the restaurant will continue to operate, serving the same award-winning menu of Southern-style comfort food that inspired one patron to scrawl on the tiny restaurant's wall: "It's like crack for fat people."
Chez Bubba's opened on First Street south of Roosevelt five years ago, and immediately caused a stir among diners lured in by Stephenson's terrific blackened fish, smothered chicken, crawfish étouffée and sweet-potato pie. The proof is in the bread pudding: Chez Bubba's counts 27 awards for its cuisine.
The restaurant also won notice for what it didn't offer: friendly service (Stephenson wasn't shy about upbraiding patrons questioning the quality of his cooking) and air conditioning.
A Valley resident for 26 years, Stephenson opened his first local restaurant in 1981, but none of them was as celebrated as Chez Bubba's. Perhaps it was this restaurant's huge success that gave him the confidence to mount his soapbox in an effort to educate the public about the differences between Creole (his brand) and Cajun cooking. While most of the public lump the two cuisines together, Stephenson thumped his chest loudly and publicly over the differences.
The resulting discourse often was as humorous as it was educational. Last year, for example, Stephenson told New Times that a Cajun could be spotted by his last name -- because of rampant intermarriage, an observer could just pick up a Louisiana phone book and look for the moniker with the most listings. Or, he advised, one could watch for the guy twitching and screaming obscenities; Cajuns, he said, have the highest incidence of Tourette's syndrome of any single culture. And while Cajuns would happily eat anything they could catch in the swamp, Creoles were more discriminating, given their training in French cooking. Folks challenging his fervent opinions were prone to stare-downs from the towering chef.
The restaurant has been closed since Stephenson's passing, but reopens November 15, and plans remain in place to open a second location at Heritage Square, Seventh Street and Monroe. Diners who appreciate Chez Bubba's cuisine -- or who have never experienced it -- are encouraged to stop in for lunch and dinner. Stephenson's long illness left his family with substantial debt.
