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Wyatt Urp

Would you like fries or a side of tequila with that sandwich?

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By Carey Sweet

Published on February 21, 2002

El Camino Café has opened in Scottsdale with a menu that, while not inspiring sparks for me, is sure to put fire in the bellies of local diners. The tiny spot in the former Mag's Ham Bun location at Scottsdale and Shea serves cuisine called "Western ranch cooking," and it isn't for timid tummies.

Tackling the Tombstone Businessman's Special promises heartburn, bringing a combo of spicy beef jerky, a jalapeño-pickled egg, a seven-ounce beer and a shot of tequila.

Sandwiches from the grill (including the "Bunny," a ham sandwich in honor of Mag's) come with a choice of sides: steak fries, potato salad, or a shot of tequila.

For dessert there's, imagine this, a shot of tequila Sauza Hornitos served with an orange wedge and cinnamon.

To be fair, the funky, Western-paraphernalia-packed cafe serves a mighty fine (also nuclear) homemade chili, superbly moist and meaty barbecued baby back ribs, a massive caesar with stunning jalapeño lime caesar dressing, and decadent comfort-food blue-plate specials such as chicken fried steak with mashed potatoes.

Plus, fire down below is exactly what we'd expect from the folks behind El Camino -- they hail from Carlsbad Tavern in Scottsdale, a New Mexican eatery that's not known for a stingy hand with incendiary Hatch chiles.

Chow Boy: Perhaps El Camino and Sysco Food Services of Arizona should put their heads together for more menu items. The hottest product at Sysco's annual food product exhibit in Phoenix last week was Wild West Buffalo. Apparently, the lean meat is in vogue (3.5 ounces of buffalo has 3 grams of fat and 120 calories versus 14 grams/210 calories for beef and 7 grams/167 calories for chicken).

I've seen buffalo served as hamburger frequently enough, but Sysco is promoting new ideas, including filet mignon, tenderloin, bone-in prime rib, brisket, hot dogs, chili con carne, Philly steak sandwiches, and bratwurst.

If you can believe it, a buffalo hot dog was named "Best New Deli Item" at a food competition in Paris, France. And the buffalo dog is only 170 calories versus a beef hot dog's shocking 489 calories.

If Not Todai, Maybe Tomorrow: No, honestly, the Todai sushi buffet hall I mentioned in August really is taking over the shell of Wolfgang Puck's failed Obachine at Biltmore Fashion Park. Folks keep bugging me about the nationally popular, upscale all-you-can-eat chain that was supposed to open in December. Latest word is that we can expect it in March.