Gheimeh Shelter

They're holding the spices at Scottsdale's latest faux-ethnic restaurant

I wish the chef would add some lamb to the gyros. Plain, spit-broiled beef is too bland, and not helped by a lackluster yogurt sauce. The hefty strips of meat are admirably juicy, though, and perk up under a spritz of lemon.

One dish needs instant attention from the chef. For all the mellowness on the menu, gheimeh bademjan launches a full-out assault on the taste buds. Surely this watery concoction is a mistake, a frightening swamp of a stew bloated with mushy, extraordinarily bitter eggplant, sweet onion, meager bits of beef and yellow split peas in a strong-as-battery-acid-based tomato sauce topped with fried potato sticks.

Showing better balance is fessenjan stew, simmering sautéed chicken tenders and walnuts in a floral, sweet-and-sour pomegranate sauce.

Persian Room steps up in Scottsdale with unintimidating cuisine.
Erik Guzowski
Persian Room steps up in Scottsdale with unintimidating cuisine.

Location Info

Map

Persian Room Fine Wine and Kebab

17040 N. Scottsdale Road
Scottsdale, AZ 85255

Category: Restaurant > Persian

Region: North Scottsdale

Details

Appetizers:
Hummus: $3.95
Dolmeh: $4.25
Torshi: $3.50

Entrees:
Sultani: $16.95
Cornish kebab: $13.95
Zereshk polo: $12.95
Lamb shish kebab: $14.95

480-614-1414. Hours: Lunch and dinner, daily, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

17040 North Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale

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The desserts are fine, including homemade baklava and a worthy Persian ice cream, the vanilla infused with saffron, honey and pistachios.

Persian Room is too sleepy for diehard fans of this compelling cuisine. But for cautious diners looking to spark up their usual meat-and-potatoes evening out, it's interesting enough.

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