Grape Nuts

Wine, don't whine, with the unpretentious fun at Atlas Bistro

My good friend Roy had made it his personal mission to teach me about wine. I'd met him, appropriately enough, at a wine tasting. But at a careless 24, I was less interested in frou-frou terminology and varietal descriptions than I was in following culinary author M.F.K. Fisher's adage: "It matters not how a wine is drunk, as long as you are."

I remember that evening — and many lovely ones later — when, in my mind, Roy ruined perfectly good meals by insisting I appreciate the nuances between Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and Zinfandel. Roy, 13 years my senior, was obsessed with good grapes and littered his conversations with affected adjectives: acidic, chewy, flinty, grassy, malolactic, supple, yeasty. There were times I thought he found the vinsexier than me, as he waxed poetic about its tactile body, firm structure, mouth-filling texture, perfect legs and nose.

Now, 10 years later, I speak the language of wine and can spout with the best of them the eccentric character of Riesling (dry and tart, or lusciously sweet as a late harvest). I understand, and appreciate, that while both Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot utilize Bordeaux grapes, I prefer Merlot for its softer character.

Put a cork in it: Atlas Bistro leaves wine snobbery at the door.
Erik Guzowski
Put a cork in it: Atlas Bistro leaves wine snobbery at the door.

Location Info

Map

Atlas Bistro

2515 N. Scottsdale Road, Ste. 18
Scottsdale, AZ 85257

Category: Restaurant > Contemporary

Region: South Scottsdale

Details

Ahi tuna: $12.95
Trout with chile-tequila sauce: $18.95
Tasting of appetizers: $19.95
Rack of lamb: $24.95
Ginger-cured duck: $22.95
Niman Ranch pork chop: $19.95

480-990-2433. Hours: Dinner, 5:30 to 10 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.

2515 North Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale

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But I've never lost my disdain for, and boredom with, such conversations. Even now, when joining Roy for a fancy dinner, I shrink in my seat when he starts his "jammy, herbaceous, tannin" talk with the waiter. It's all just too pretentious for me.

When the conversation turns too conceited, I think back on a private tour I took last year of Sicily's renowned L'Azienda Agricola Planeta winery, and I smile. The young boutique winery nestled on Lago Arancio (Orange Lake) gained international recognition for its superior quality in 1998, just three years after producing its first bottle.

I felt entirely intimidated as the owner led me through the cool dank of the small cellar, his hand unconsciously, proudly stroking the handmade wooden casks as he described each wine's pedigree. He drew the plug from a cask, released a glittery pour of wine into a sparkling goblet, and led me through the ritual: swirl, smell, swish, swallow (this stuff was much too good to spit out). I wanted so badly to down each three-ounce sample, but following his lead, I unhappily relinquished the remaining nectar to an assistant, who poured the leftovers into a jug.

As we moved on to the next varietal, I saw movement out of the corner of my eye. The assistant had taken the jug and was pouring our surplus wine back into the aging keg, backwash and all. I laughed, and the Planeta owner shrugged.

"We're just a little winery," he said in thick, unapologetic Italian-accented English. "We'd be crazy to waste the wine."

I came across a Planeta tasting table at the Food & Wine Magazine Classic in Aspen last month. "Mmm," I said, sipping a sample of Chardonnay. "I'd recognize my spit anywhere."

Over the years, I have to think that people's preoccupation with wine snobbery is waning. The Food Network has made wine appreciation much more mainstream. Oenophiles are aging: Roy even gave away his massive collection of custom crystal decanters and goblets last month. ("It just doesn't matter to me much anymore," he admitted. "I want to enjoy wine, not think about it.")

And then there are the wine bars popping up all over town. Places like Kazimierz World Wine Bar, Postino and that original House of Spirits, Sportsman's, encourage sampling wine flights, three-ounce pours of various wines that allow us to educate our palates while snacking on gourmet pizza, bruschetta and cheeses.

So when I was driving down Scottsdale Road the other evening — thrilled that, for one of the first times, I'd successfully navigated the curve north of Osborn without ending up in the Walgreens parking lot — and saw the giant new "BYOB" restaurant sign that's popped up next to AZ Wine Co., I made a sharp left and skidded to a stop in the parking lot.

AZ Wine Co. is one of my favorite places to explore wines. With some 20,000 bottles, it's the largest wine shop in Arizona, but more important to me, it's absolutely relaxed and remarkably well-priced. No noses in the air, just naked concrete floors lined with long, collapsible tables topped with box after box of wines from around the world. The box tops are ripped off to expose slender bottle necks, the prices are scrawled on the cardboard in Magic Marker and, on one box, I see someone's handwritten comment: Great!

The Wine Co. is where you'll find me many Wednesdays and Fridays, indulging in free tastings at the cozy bar or kicking back on one of the front-porch-style sofas and chairs clustered in a cradle of boxes.

The only thing lacking at AZ Wine, I'd thought, was the opportunity to eat while I drink (I've got to snack while drinking or I immediately fall asleep). Enter Atlas Bistro, the real name that's hidden under the letters of the giant "BYOB" sign beckoning from behind a pet shop fronting Scottsdale Road.

Genius! Atlas is part of the warehouse, separated by French doors and endearingly tranquil. Decor is decidedly — refreshingly — unpretentious, with some color slapped on the concrete floor, tan paint on the walls, white tablecloths cozied down with white butcher paper, and blond mission-style chairs. Personality is found only in a few offbeat photos of faces on the walls and in Mexican-tile coasters topped with tiny glass vases fat with mini carnations.

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