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When the heat level is toned down, I can handle Hodori much better. Diners should memorize this number: 8. Because that's the dish that is "mushroom tofu soup with pork," an exquisite creation that showcases the jewelry of Korean cooking without blasting our American palates. This is a cauldron of complex tastes, heady with giant slices of mushroom, and gentle with custard-rich chunks of tofu floating in a vegetable broth. There's a lot to like in a noodle dish, too, the skinny pasta served cold and topped with crunchy radish kimchi.
Exciting stuff, this Korean food. But fair warning: Hodori may be too hot for most of us to handle.E-mail carey.sweet@newtimes.com