Lush Luau

What better way to await the end of civilization than with the pupu platter at Drift?

Bill Maher may not be Edward Gibbon, but he made an excellent point recently on his HBO show Real Time when discussing the decadence of our era: "We live in Roman times." That is, we have a very American Empire, with conquests abroad, barbarians at the gates and bread and circuses for the masses. The last of these include everything from Anna Nicole Smith's weight loss and Fox TV's dating show for dwarfs to the mainstreaming of porn and the fact that every time Britney Spears burps it's front page news.

Indeed, it could well be that when future historians look back on our time, they will see nothing but increasing anarchy preceding a cataclysmic collapse, all of it aided and abetted by a fat, indulgent nation of illiterates. But really, what the hell can we do about it? Not much. Plus, it's not like I want Big Brother Ashcroft coming after my copy of the Paris Hilton tape, or Howard Stern kicked off Clear Channel, as he seems to be as of the moment. I am, at heart, a voluptuary and a voyeur, which may be the reason I have this job. And if it were up to me, we'd have whole cable channels dedicated to little people reality shows and Britney's digestive tract.

I'm saying we should embrace the hedonism of our times, and there's no better place to do it, in my opinion, than at the 14-month-old Drift Polynesian Restaurant and Tiki Lounge in Scottsdale, which is easily the most sensuous and sinful eatery in the Valley of the Sun. Designed by owner Greg Donnally, who was one of the owners of Ra Sushi before selling it to Benihana, every detail in Drift calls to mind such legendary purveyors of the old tiki theme as Trader Vic's and Don the Beachcomber's, save that Drift is far more swank. The exterior is most impressive by night with giant Gilligan's Island-style torches illuminating the grass-hut-style roof and a patio dominated by these bizarre hand-carved Balinese chairs, their pale, dinosaur-like pieces looking like something right off the set of The Flintstones movie with John Goodman.

Pupu pleasing: Drift's island lovelies make offerings to the tiki god.
Jackie Mercandetti
Pupu pleasing: Drift's island lovelies make offerings to the tiki god.

Location Info

Map

Drift Lounge

4341 N. 75th St.
Scottsdale, AZ 85251

Category: Restaurant > Fusion

Region: Central Scottsdale

Details

Pupu platter: $22
Samoan black pepper fillet: $24
Coconut shrimp: $8
Evil Bastard: $12

480-949-8454. Kitchen open Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to midnight; Saturday and Sunday, 4:30 p.m. to midnight. Bar open until 1 a.m.

4341 North 75th Street (75th Street and Stetson), Scottsdale

Inside is an alluring little pocket of Polynesia, with a bamboo-roofed lounge area to the right that looks out to a large, square, glass-topped bar to the left. The lounge is hung with numerous island-carved masks, and the roof supports are encircled with Zulu rope, a straw-colored palm frond product. A number of low, concave booths of soft, gray and white upholstery line the wall, and between these and the bar are wooden tables surrounded by modish black chairs on steel pedestals. Dominating the lounge at the far back is an eight-foot-tall concrete reproduction of one of those colossal Easter Island heads, called a moai, and behind it is a wall of faux lava rock.

The bar literally glows as it's lit from underneath, as indeed almost 100 percent of the lighting in the place is indirect, lending a groovy, twilight ambiance. In the middle of the bar, a large aquarium of tropical fish sends off a radiant blue aura, and the two TVs set into the wall behind the bar play surfing videos, or one of the classic Elvis-in-Hawaii flicks. And to the far side of the bar, a beehive-style fireplace crackles invitingly.

Blonde cuties in midriff-baring, aquamarine tank tops and white, low-cut clam-diggers buzz about with trays full of tall, exotic drinks in tiki glassware. There's the Evil Bastard, a mixture of Bacardi 151 and various fruit syrups, served in a devilish red glass sporting some especially suggestive horns. (When your waitress brings your Evil Bastard, a rum-soaked sugar cube is set aflame atop a sliver of floating fruit.) The Evil Bastard is easily the most popular drink in the place, and Drift's general manager, Bryan Chittenden, jokes that "everyone in Scottsdale has made off with one of those glasses. I don't want people to steal them. But it is a good form of advertising."

Some of Drift's other tiki-inspired drinks include the Witch Doctor in a skull-like glass, Pele's Eruption in a big, green, flaming pot, the Hoti in a Buddha-shaped glass, and the Alotta Colata in a coconut shell with a straw sticking out the side. But my preferred potation to enjoy with friends is the Grotto, which comes in a huge, plastic oyster shell with long straws for communal slurping. Inside the shell is a load of ice, flavored rum, Southern Comfort, apricot brandy, peach schnapps, blue curacao and a number of other liquids on top. An assemblage of edible orchids floats in the mixture.

Like most of Drift's other drinks, the Grotto is similar to a Long Island Iced Tea in the sense that when you drink it, it's like you're imbibing Hi-C. But as soon as you attempt rising from your chair, you find that someone tilted the floor to a 45-degree angle. When I visited on a Saturday night, after several Evil Bastards and a Grotto shared amongst pals, we were literally crawling to our cars. By St. Martin's goose, we're bloody lucky the police didn't stop us that evening and ask us to recite the alphabet, forward or backward. Book 'em, Danno!

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