Dough Boy

Our foodie finds the top five pizza spots in town

Los Angeles may have the ocean, a temperate climate, Hollywood starlets and the Lakers, but the Valley cleans La-La Land's proverbial clock when it comes to pizza. Perhaps Angelenos are too busy eating tofu and primping for their close-ups, but for whatever reason, in El Lay, it's either Wolfgang Puck or Domino's, and precious little in between. Denizens of Greater Phoenix, on the other hand, can boast a plethora of pizzerias, both gourmet and greasy, at which to pack on the pounds.

The lamest pizza I've ever had was in L.A. and the best was in New York. No surprise there, I suppose. Still, Gotham was quite a revelation to this Carolina cracker when I moved there a year or two after college. In the Big Apple, I discovered that (shazam!) pizza crust really didn't have to taste like cardboard! Every corner had a parlor that served big slices so wet with grease you had to pat them down with a napkin before eating. The crust was extra-soft, and sometimes you had trouble getting it into your mouth, but once there, it would ooze into nothingness like some sort of warm, doughy ice cream.

Fortunately for us all, the Valley is closer to the East River than the Pacific when we're talking about mozzarella-and-marinara pies. I'll even go so far as to stake our claim to being the desert Napoli -- that Italian city known as the birthplace of the modern pizza. Here follows, then, in rank of best to worst, my selection of the top five spots in town.

Pie-eyed guy: Joe Ciolli, owner of Patsy Grimaldi's, serves up the Valley's best pizza.
Jackie Mercandetti
Pie-eyed guy: Joe Ciolli, owner of Patsy Grimaldi's, serves up the Valley's best pizza.

Location Info

Map

Patsy Grimaldi's Pizzeria

4000 N. Scottsdale Road
Scottsdale, AZ 85251

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Central Scottsdale

Details

480-994-1100.
Hours: Daily, 11 a.m. to midnight.

Slices
7111 East Fifth Avenue, Scottsdale,
480-421-9540.
Hours: Monday and Tuesday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Wednesday and Thursday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 10 a.m. to 2 a.m.; Sunday, noon to 5 p.m.

Slices
11 East Sixth Street, Tempe,
480-966-4681.
Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.

400 North Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale

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Way out in front is Patsy Grimaldi's Coal Brick Oven Pizzeria in Old Town Scottsdale. The king of New York pizza has spared no expense in bringing the coal-burning brick-oven method to PHX, with a huge oven area where you can watch the pizza makers twirl the dough up in the air. Grimaldi's is a big place, with an upscale bar space, tables covered with red-and-white-checked linen, and Sinatra and Sammy Davis Jr. crooning on the stereo system. It's almost too nice to be reminiscent of Gotham eateries, which are usually a lot grittier. But, hey, that's Scottsdale, people!

Grimaldi's makes a first-rate salad, with romaine lettuce, roasted red peppers, whole black olives, cherry tomatoes, and light Italian vinaigrette dressing. But who're we kidding? We want that pizza, with its crisp, thin crust, charred somewhat by the coal, and topped with blotches of homemade mozzarella and sweet tomato sauce. Grimaldi's only offers traditional toppings such as anchovies, ham, sausage, and so on. And I suggest you go really old school by ordering a personal pizza with pepperoni and mushrooms ($9 for the pizza, plus $2 for each topping). One taste, and you'll see why such luminaries as former New York mayor Rudy Giuliani, Bill Cosby and Danny DeVito are fans of the original Grimaldi's.

Coal-fired pizza is actually an anachronism in New York, and elsewhere, for that matter. America's first pizzeria ever, opened by Gennaro Lombardi in 1905 in what was then Little Italy, used a coal-burning oven, but environmental concerns have mostly done away with these. Usually, what you get in New York is the product of conventional gas ovens. So even though Grimaldi's is by far the best pizza in the Valley, I'm not sold on coal-fired brick ovens, or any kind of oven for that matter, being the be-all, end-all. I know some foodies out there get all worked up when describing that so-and-so's pizzeria has a brick oven that burns some highfalutin wood flown in from parts unknown. This is the sort of tutti-frutti mess you get in our pitiful morning rag, but all I'm concerned about when I push that pizza past my lips is the end result. I don't care if you bake the pie on the hood of your friggin' Humvee, as long as it tastes good.

Which is why second on my list is a little shop nearby Grimaldi's called Slices. It actually has two locations, one in Old Town Scottsdale, and one in Tempe. I haven't been to the one in Tempe, but the one in Scottsdale is the closest to the sort of thin-crust, NY-style pizza I would eat on those mean streets all the time. The dough is not as soggy or as laden with oil as I might like, but it's still right tasty, and, at a mere $2 to $2.50 a slice, a great value. They use a conventional oven, but that hasn't stopped me from making several return visits. I'm perversely enamored of their four-cheese white pizza, with garlic and slices of fresh tomato. So much so that if given the choice between a triangle of Slices' white and a midnight romp with Naomi Watts, I'd have to give it serious thought.

Third from the top is Western Pizza on East Indian School, near 48th Street. This trendy little spot is a spin-off of a Canadian chain, and its dough is thick, soft and not at all salty. It's somewhat similar to Chicago-style in that it's almost like a pie, with a lot of cheese melted over big chunks of whatever toppings you choose. The place uses a standard gas, deck oven, so there's no smokiness, just a light browning of the bottom, and it has several specialty pizzas, somewhat akin to the unusual combinations you'll find at California Pizza Kitchen, though Western is much better. My fave was the Clucky's barbecue, with chicken, onions, pine nuts and dark barbecue sauce instead of marinara, all topped with a mix of Gouda and mozzarella ($10.45 for a small). Next to that, I'd have to choose the less-exotic ham and pineapple Hula Dance with tangy-sweet tomato sauce ($7.50).

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