Bravo, Blac-a-Zoli

New eatery good to go

After all this, the spaghetti and meatballs are a letdown. The meatballs are adequate, the pasta so-so, and the marinara listless and stingily applied. My advice: More and better marinara, sirs! This is one dish that should be a no-brainer.

The desserts also need some work, I'm afraid.

The watermelon-vodka sorbet seems like a good idea, but is less flavorful than I'd prefer. And I've never had a flourless chocolate cake that did anything for me. They all taste like those brownies kids bake with their Easy-Bake ovens. Blac-a-Zoli's is no exception. The peach shortcake, with its layers of crisps, peaches, and whipped cream, is better, but nothing to do handstands over.

Almost all smiles: From left, co-owners Robert Capozzoli and Kristine Black, and head chef Vincent Contreras.
Almost all smiles: From left, co-owners Robert Capozzoli and Kristine Black, and head chef Vincent Contreras.

Details

Jalapeño paisano: $7
Hearts of palm salad: $7
House cut pork chop: $17
Nana's orecchiette: $15

602-264-1092

Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

5114 North Seventh Street, Phoenix

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Still, such gripes aside, Blac-a-Zoli is an excellent example of being ready for business by the time you open for business: a trait some other neophyte hash-slingers in town would do well to emulate.

E-mail stephen.lemons@newtimes.com

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