By New Times
By Robrt L. Pela
By Lauren Saria and Heather Hoch
By Deborah Sussman
By Robrt L. Pela and Amy Silverman
By Kathleen Vanesian
By Eric Schaefer
By Heather Hoch
The second of these, the cochinita pibil, is shredded pork baked in rust-colored achiote sauce. As advised by my server, I added generous amounts of habanero to the pork, which gave the swine some extra zest. By itself, that habanero relish could fuel a VW, but mashed into the pork, its heat diffuses, adding a piquancy to the dish.
I got around to two of Coyoacán's desserts, a caramel crepe with a hint of tequila, sprinkled with chopped nuts, which went down pretty well, save that the crepe was a little tough; and the flan napolitano, sort of a cross between a flan and a cheesecake. (Insert your own gubernatorial joke here.) Yes, the napolitano was rich and creamy, but between cheesecake and flan, I'd rather have flan. And make mine eggy and custardy, bubba, or don't make it at all!
But if I can't have a traditional flan at Coyoacán instead of some hybrid, I'm going to start referring to "those lights on South Mountain" as "Lucifer's footlocker." And you wait, I'll bet it'll catch on, too.
9014 S. Central Ave.
Phoenix, AZ 85042
Region: South Phoenix
(www.coyoacansteak.com), 602-323-9010. Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, lunch, 11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.; dinner, 4:30 to 10 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 10 p.m.; closed Monday.