South Mountain Mojo

Mexican cuisine done right at Coyoacán

Comments (0) By Stephen Lemons Thursday, Dec 9 2004

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The second of these, the cochinita pibil, is shredded pork baked in rust-colored achiote sauce. As advised by my server, I added generous amounts of habanero to the pork, which gave the swine some extra zest. By itself, that habanero relish could fuel a VW, but mashed into the pork, its heat diffuses, adding a piquancy to the dish.

I got around to two of Coyoacán's desserts, a caramel crepe with a hint of tequila, sprinkled with chopped nuts, which went down pretty well, save that the crepe was a little tough; and the flan napolitano, sort of a cross between a flan and a cheesecake. (Insert your own gubernatorial joke here.) Yes, the napolitano was rich and creamy, but between cheesecake and flan, I'd rather have flan. And make mine eggy and custardy, bubba, or don't make it at all!

Jackie Mercandetti

Big daddy: CoyoacÃ¡n owner Juan Sanchez makes magic near South Mountain, with the help of chef Moises Treves.

Location Info

Map

Coyoacan

9014 S. Central Ave.
Phoenix, AZ 85042

Category: Restaurant > Mexican

Region: South Phoenix

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Details

Nopal Hidalgo: $8.95
Filet mignon: $26.95
Mole poblano: $16.95
Grilled venison: $21.95

(www.coyoacansteak.com), 602-323-9010. Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, lunch, 11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.; dinner, 4:30 to 10 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 10 p.m.; closed Monday.

9014 South Central Avenue

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But if I can't have a traditional flan at Coyoacán instead of some hybrid, I'm going to start referring to "those lights on South Mountain" as "Lucifer's footlocker." And you wait, I'll bet it'll catch on, too.

E-mail stephen.lemons@newtimes.com