Embarrassment of Riches

Scottsdale 'hood gets another creative supper spot

The sorcerer and his apprentice: Executive chef/co-owner James Porter and sous chef Kevin Lear, in front of Tapino's serpentine wall o' wine.
Jackie Mercandetti
The sorcerer and his apprentice: Executive chef/co-owner James Porter and sous chef Kevin Lear, in front of Tapino's serpentine wall o' wine.

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Tapino Kitchen & Wine Bar

7000 E. Shea Blvd.
Scottsdale, AZ 85254

Category: Bars/Clubs

Region: North Scottsdale

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Bruschetta: five for $10
Artisan foie gras: $7
Bamboo-steamed Scottish salmon: $17
Pan-roasted Maine diver scallops: $19

Hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 5 p.m. to close. (Kitchen usually closes between 10 and 10:30 p.m.)
480-991-6887

7000 East Shea Boulevard, Scottsdale

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Salsify is a root said to taste like oysters. And though I didn't quite get the taste of mollusks from the creamy white veggies, I did find them unusually palatable. And, oh, those braised bulbs of fennel, slightly sweet, with a touch of tarragon, were silky soft and toothsome, reminding me of that James Beard quote: "If ever I had to practice cannibalism, I might manage if there were enough tarragon around."

Yes, I sampled the desserts: house-made ice creams, beignets, a lava-chocolate cake and so on. The beignets were the best, but after all that grub, really all I needed was a glass of port and a roaring fire to stare into. But since no fireplace was handy, the port had to suffice.

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1 comments
Don R
Don R

I had dinner a Tapino's for the second time last night (1 Sep 07). The first time we ate there was in February 07. Wow, what a change. The portions were a lot smaller and the prices were a lot higher. The food was tasty but ridiculously sparse. The side salad consisted of two or three half's of cherry tomatoes, the meat platter consisted of two small pieces of spiced meats and a few shaved pieces ($15.00) and the lamb pieces were two bites each. I don't go for these all-you-can-eat places by a long shot but this was ridiculous. Several hundred dollars later the four of us went away hungry. I was embarrassed that I had recommended this place to my friends.

 
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