Lust for Laab

Fresh flavors restore our critic's faith in food

The marvelous Mint team: From left, waitress Pook 
Bonmoh, part-owner/chef Rungnapa Kim, head chef 
Chan Tip Botte, part-owner/chef Sriyupa "Rose" Hul, and part-owner Chheang Kim.
Jackie Mercandetti
The marvelous Mint team: From left, waitress Pook Bonmoh, part-owner/chef Rungnapa Kim, head chef Chan Tip Botte, part-owner/chef Sriyupa "Rose" Hul, and part-owner Chheang Kim.

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Mint Thai Cafe

1111 N. Gilbert Road
Gilbert, AZ 85234

Category: Restaurant > Thai

Region: Gilbert

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Satay: $6.95
Laab: $7.95
Mussaman curry: $9.25
Rama beef: $9.75

480-497-5366.
Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Saturday, noon to 3 p.m. Dinner, Monday through Thursday, 5 to 9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m. Closed Sunday.

1111 North Gilbert Road (between Baseline and Guadalupe roads), Gilbert

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I could sing hosannas about Mint's appetizers, its chicken wings stuffed with minced, marinated pork and chicken, its golden spring rolls filled with glass noodles and ground chicken, and its satay skewers of grilled clucker accompanied by sides of sliced, syrupy cucumbers and peanut dip -- all more savory than the average Thai bistro. The "golden nests" are adorable and delish: shredded potato molded into a cup, baked, then crammed full of chicken, green beans and carrots. Spoon some sweet-and-sour condiment over it, and the insides turn moist with flavor.

Singha beer is the drink of choice here. As the great Shane MacGowan of Pogues fame once sang in his pirate-like croak, "Singha beer don't ask no questions, Singha beer don't tell no lies." Beer doesn't go with dessert, though, so switch to Thai iced tea when you order the sticky rice with mango, the confection of kings! So good, I've forgotten all about Arma--, Arma-- . . . now what was the name of that hole?

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