Calf-Fry Castle

Venerable feed lot reopens

Despite the stuffing of shredded duck with corn, and an interesting sauce of veal stock, New Mexico chiles and fresh raspberries, the duck enchiladas were not as enticing as I'd wished. Perhaps if the strands of duck had been thicker, I would have gotten more of the flavor of the fowl and liked it more. As it was, the veal sauce overwhelmed it.

The A team: From left, Stockyards chef Spencer Haney with a plate of calf fries; and co-owners Tom Lentz, J.B. Grantham and Mark Wagner.
Jackie Mercandetti
The A team: From left, Stockyards chef Spencer Haney with a plate of calf fries; and co-owners Tom Lentz, J.B. Grantham and Mark Wagner.

Location Info

Map

The Stockyards Restaurant and 1889 Saloon

5009 E. Washington St.
Phoenix, AZ 85034

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Central Phoenix

Details

Calf fries: $10
Duck enchiladas: $10
Top sirloin baseball cut (12 oz.): $26
Skillet salmon: $20

www.stockyardsrestaurant.com, 602-273-737.
Hours: Lunch, Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. in the main dining rooms, 2 to 5 p.m. in the Saloon; Dinner, Monday through Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 4:30 to 9 p.m.

5009 East Washington Street, Phoenix

Per the desserts, I found the citrus burnt crème somewhat bland, but the pecan pie with vanilla bean ice cream was magnificent, featuring a pie filling of bourbon, brown sugar and chocolate. Almost better than my grandmother's back in North Carolina, and at least as memorable. If this pecan pie was all the Stockyards served, along with that baseball cut steak and the calf fries, it would still be a worthy dining experience. And with some tweaks, what's worthy will also shortly be, I'm quite sure, exceptional.

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