Tables Turned

Disarming hospitality

A A A Comments (0) By Stephen Lemons Thursday, Sep 1 2005

The tomato and lobster bisque was velvety, a marvel. But the Caprese-like salad, served as a special, with heirloom tomatoes that I'm still fantasizing about, reminded me why I adore Caprese, even after all of the horrid examples of it I've had elsewhere. The pièce de résistance, salad-wise, was the prosciutto and melon: balls of melon and cantaloupe, and small cuts of mozzarella, released by the waiter from a glass over a bed of greens and prosciutto, bathed lightly in the French muscat Beaumes-de-Venise. A true symphony of pleasure.

Per the entrees, the rack of lamb was one of the better ones I've snarfed, though I found it a tad heavy on the sodium chloride. The medallions of grilled wild boar loin were tender and rich, an absorbing plate that you really sink into. I only wished the habanero sauce around it had been spicy, but my server promised it will be next time. And the seared sea scallops? Like a magnificent bivalve archipelago in a shallow mélange of butternut squash.

Jackie Mercandetti

Vincent triumphant: Chef Vincent Guerithault soothes our savage beast of a critic with fine vittles and superior service.

Location Info

Map

Vincent's Market Bistro

3930 E. Camelback Road
Phoenix, AZ 85018

Category: Restaurant > Brunch

Region: East Phoenix

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Details

Shrimp beignets: $14
Duck tamale: $12
Rack of lamb: $32
Beef short ribs: $31

602-224-0225, »web link.
Hours: Lunch, Tuesday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner, Tuesday through Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m. Open Mondays starting October 1.

3930 East Camelback Road

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Desserts, from the tarte, to the crème brûlée, to the flourless chocolate cake, provided just enough confection to go with a double espresso or two. Sigh . . . I came to conquer and was conquered. In Vincent's, this Mack the Knife has met his match.