Short Loin Legends

Too much at steak

Comments (0) By Stephen Lemons Thursday, Oct 27 2005

...continued from page 1

Jackie Mercandetti

Chew on this, pallie: Durant's night kitchen supervisor Ernie Canez shows off 48 ounces of uncooked porterhouse, a version of which eventually ended up in Lemons' belly.

Location Info

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Durant's

2611 N. Central Ave.
Phoenix, AZ 85004

Category: Bars/Clubs

Region: Central Phoenix

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Details

602-264-5967, »web link.
Restaurant hours: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 4:30 to 10 p.m. Bar open later.

2611 North Central Avenue (near Central and Virginia avenues)

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Let's just say that, with the help of a bottle of Pinot Noir, I came, I saw, I quaffed, I snarfed. On the whole, the steak was quite tasty, crisp and blackened on the exterior, with the strip side pink, fatty and flavorful, and the filet side tender and satisfying. Within half an hour, nothing was left of that porterhouse but the bone and the whiff of charcoal on my breath. Julie finished far behind, and even then only with the assistance (I suspect) of one witness next to her. Victory was as sweet as the free strawberry shortcake before me, and I confess that the following day, food did not pass my lips again until supper.

The last few bites were the toughest, and yet I'm already plotting an encore. You see, each time you down a porterhouse, you get a space on a plaque that holds more than a dozen names. I have dreams of an entire plaque on the restaurant's wall repeating the title chosen for me: Stephen "Hoover" Lemons. You've got to admit, it has a ring to it. And who needs a statue or some old parade, anyway, when honored in such a grand fashion?