By New Times
By Robrt L. Pela
By Lauren Saria and Heather Hoch
By Deborah Sussman
By Robrt L. Pela and Amy Silverman
By Kathleen Vanesian
By Eric Schaefer
By Heather Hoch
The braised beef short ribs in a demi-glace were a distinct improvement -- delectable and falling-off-the-bone tender. The coq au vin? A fair rendition of the famous chicken/red wine stew that some believe was first dreamed up by Julius Caesar's personal chef. Sides like the garlic mashed pots and the sautéed spinach with shallots were just okay.
The desserts are created off-site and are kind of puny, though the peanut butter crunch and the amaretto cheesecake went nicely with my espresso. Regarding Fenix's liquid refreshments, I was glad to see a number of modestly priced bottles included on the wine list. One source of annoyance: table water that tasted of the tap, always at the top of my peeve list.
3943 E. Camelback Road
Phoenix, AZ 85018
Region: East Phoenix
Kitchen open from 5 to 11 p.m. daily. Bar open at 4 p.m. 'til late.
Nevertheless, I've decided to spare Fenix a one-way trip to gustatory Golgotha. Sending its owner off to a spelling bee might be more appropriate punishment. In any case, as long as Matmati is flexing his mussels, this paunchy Pilate will let this restaurant slide.