Beggar's Banquet

Sticking a fork in 2005

Chef William Bradley with his jumbo fork.
Jackie Mercandetti
Chef William Bradley with his jumbo fork.
Phoenix Ranch Market's carnicería, with its pig's head sculpted from chorizo.
Jackie Mercandetti
Phoenix Ranch Market's carnicería, with its pig's head sculpted from chorizo.

Restaurant 28's Carolina comfort food, 5025 West Olive Avenue, Glendale, 623-934-0920.
You can take the boy out of Carolina, but if you cut him, he'll still bleed Tar Heel blue. Lord knows, I've tried eluding my past like a cloud of angry hornets, but escape is futile, especially when you place a plate of Restaurant 28's vinegar-based N.C.-style pulled pork before me. Add in some hush puppies and a side of collard greens, and I'll take my shoes off and start jabbering away like I just stepped off the set of Cold Mountain.

The jumbo fork at Vu, 7500 East Doubletree Ranch Road (Hyatt Regency Scottsdale Resort and Spa at Gainey Ranch), Scottsdale, 480-444-1234.
Chef William Bradley may be one of the most talented, highfalutin hash-slingers in the Valley, but there's nothing sillier than having to eat the small, nouvelle-size portions at his acclaimed restaurant Vu with the jumbo fork you're given. The utensil's perfect if you're the size of the late Andre the Giant. Otherwise, it'll make you feel like Verne Troyer trying on Shaq's NBA uniform. I'm guessing that years hence I'll have no idea what I ate at Vu, but I'll always recall that freakin' fork.

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