Blarney Boned

Turning of the green

Comments (0) By Stephen Lemons Thursday, Mar 16 2006

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The "St. James's Guinness stew"? Served in a bleedin' bread bowl, of all things! Flavor-wise, Donovan McNabb's mom could do better with her Campbell's connection. Moreover, the bread bowl tends to keep the portion size small, which may be a gift horse considering the quality of what was in it.

Plenty of egg rolls, wings and quesadillas on offer, of course, as well as this one appetizer called "Blarney Stones," deep-fried orangeish goo described as "bite-sized Reuben puffs" accompanied by a Thousand Island dip. I think they call them Blarney Stones 'cause after one of those ghastly gobs kisses the lining of your stomach, it'll be sitting there like a rock at the bottom of Galway Bay for the next 24 hours.

Peter Scanlon

Eire impaired: The corned beef and cabbage boxty is one of the few items worth noshing at Molly Brannigans, but you need more than one solid dish to earn Lemons' nod.

Details

Celtic platter: $11.95

Bantry Bay scallops: $8.95

Corned beef boxty: $12.95

St. James's Guinness stew: $10.95

480-507-7827, »web link.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. daily

1744 South Val Vista Drive (Dana Park Village Square), Mesa

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Boxty aside, Molly Brannigans has little to recommend it, and so I won't. And with that, I bring St. Paddy's Day to a merciful close, and promise not to review Irish food for at least another year, if I can help it.