By New Times
By Robrt L. Pela
By Lauren Saria and Heather Hoch
By Deborah Sussman
By Robrt L. Pela and Amy Silverman
By Kathleen Vanesian
By Eric Schaefer
By Heather Hoch
A Treves standard like the cochinita pibil, its shredded pork dripping juices tinged with achiote, plus a red onion relish and a salsa of incendiary haba&nitlde;ero to the side for the brave, was as perfect as when I first had it back at Coyoacán. I dug the shrimp Trinidad, curried crustaceans served in a hollowed-out pineapple, but found it too expensive at $26.95 a shot. Back to perfection on the desserts, like the pear poached in red wine, or the amazing choco-flan, sure to be another Treves classic -- half his signature cheesecake/flan "Napolitano," and half moist, spongy chocolate cake.
Cochinita Pibil: $14.95
Shrimp Trinidad: $26.95
623-362-8000, »web link
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Chef Moises wants to lead his followers into the culinary desert, but Cocono's ain't The Promised Land. Still, for residents of the surrounding area, manna from heaven it may be.