Name Blame

Scores some hits, but not destination dining yet

Comments (0) By Stephen Lemons Thursday, Mar 30 2006

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Jackie Mercandetti

Idol worship: Chef Moises Treves appeases the culinary gods with his magnificent choco-flan, but not everything on Cocono's bill of fare is worth the trek to BFE.

Details

Filet Oaxaca: $25.95

Cochinita Pibil: $14.95

Shrimp Trinidad: $26.95

Choco-Flan: $4.95 623-362-8000, »web link
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

8280 W. Union Hills Dr., Glendale

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A Treves standard like the cochinita pibil, its shredded pork dripping juices tinged with achiote, plus a red onion relish and a salsa of incendiary haba&nitlde;ero to the side for the brave, was as perfect as when I first had it back at Coyoacán. I dug the shrimp Trinidad, curried crustaceans served in a hollowed-out pineapple, but found it too expensive at $26.95 a shot. Back to perfection on the desserts, like the pear poached in red wine, or the amazing choco-flan, sure to be another Treves classic -- half his signature cheesecake/flan "Napolitano," and half moist, spongy chocolate cake.

Chef Moises wants to lead his followers into the culinary desert, but Cocono's ain't The Promised Land. Still, for residents of the surrounding area, manna from heaven it may be.