By New Times
By Robrt L. Pela
By Lauren Saria and Heather Hoch
By Deborah Sussman
By Robrt L. Pela and Amy Silverman
By Kathleen Vanesian
By Eric Schaefer
By Heather Hoch
But the croquettes de crevettes, crispy fritters with an interior of shrimp bisque, brandy and roux, were amazing, like deep-fried globs of warm shrimp pudding. Same for the coquilles ostendaise, scallops cooked in a cheese béchamel. The salads, too, intrigued the palate. I greedily devoured the salade tomates crevettes, with its shrimp and its cognac mayonnaise. Ditto the salade Liègeoise, with green beans, hard-boiled egg, tomatoes, mixed greenery, and lardons.
Geuskens provides a handful of Belgian beers, but it's really the beer cocktails, like Stella Artois and Pepsi, Stella and grenadine, or Stella and crème de menthe, that are revelations. Who'd fathom that Stella and Pepsi would taste so refreshing? Those nutty Belgians, apparently.
2333 N. 7th St.
Phoenix, AZ 85006-1607
Region: Central Phoenix
Moules au vin blanc: $16
Salade Liègeoise: $9
Mousse au chocolat: $6 602-254-0244. Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m.
Happy endings of note included the tres-sticky triple chocolate mousse, the flan with pralines, and the fruit tartelette. All exceptional. But that mousse of white, milk, and dark chocolates, one atop the other in layers? Fellas, this is the sort of confection ladies swoon over. I know. I watched the two with me do just that as they spooned that goo from a dessert glass. A Belgian aphrodisiac? Dear me, I'll never tell.