Secret Sharer

Grape and murder

Sweets like the mini-chocolate soufflé and the apple-walnut tart pleased the femmes in my troupe, but I much preferred a hunk of slightly funky delice de Bourgogne, a rich triple cream cheese from Burgundy, served with apple slices, niçoise olives, and pecans. The perfect ending to a perfect meal, and one that complements the imbibing of more wine.

Interestingly, Backstreet's space has a slightly sordid yet titillating history. It was once called Ernesto's Backstreet, and reputedly well-known to la cosa nostra. In June of 1986, Ernesto's 73-year-old maitre d' Emil "Mal" Vaci was whacked gangland-style: bullet to the head, body dumped in ditch. Seems he'd been granted immunity by the feds and was likely to sing. The story goes that the hit had not been sanctioned, and so the goombah who ordered it, one Anthony "Tony the Ant" Spilotro, was in turn beaten to death with his brother Michael in an Indiana cornfield. Remember how Joe Pesci buys it in Casino? Art imitating life.

Empress of edibles: Lemons hails his new culinary queen, chef Patrice Barry of Backstreet Wine Salon, whose comestibles are the perfect match to owner Jock Wulffson's affordable wine offerings.
Jackie Mercandetti
Empress of edibles: Lemons hails his new culinary queen, chef Patrice Barry of Backstreet Wine Salon, whose comestibles are the perfect match to owner Jock Wulffson's affordable wine offerings.

Location Info

Map

Backstreet Wine Salon

3603 E. Indian School Road
Phoenix, AZ 85018

Category: Bars and Clubs

Region: East Phoenix

Details

Petite steak sandwich: $7

Frisee aux lardons: $8

Sorrel bisque: $8

Mixed grill: $20 602-550-7900.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

3603 East Indian School Road (36th Street just south of Indian School Road)

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So go for the Mafia stories, the meals, the affordable vino, the atmosphere. At least I was a monarch for a day. As another sovereign once said, "Après moi, le déluge."

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