Guinea Piggery

The little bistro that should

The panna cotta has the distinction of being one of the few panna cottas I've ever come across that I haven't enjoyed. What was that strange, aspartame-ish aftertaste? It annoyed me for the rest of the night. The cheesy-iciness of the mascarpone sorbet was intriguing, if hardly engrossing. But the dark chocolate bread pudding and the miniature banana cream pie were each superb, assuaging the taste buds with a rich, old-fashioned sort of creaminess.

My meals began with an amuse-bouche of basily tomato-water, not nearly as bad as it sounds. Still, I initially had to suppress a gag reflex as I downed the rust-colored H2O. I know tomato-water's all the rage, but I can't help thinking of dishwater when they bring it to me. Might I suggest, for these soon-to-be summer nights, a melon gazpacho, or something along these lines?

Back to the future: Circa 1900 chef Christopher Curtiss, with his baby beet salad, wild salmon entree, and banana cream pie.
Jackie Mercandetti
Back to the future: Circa 1900 chef Christopher Curtiss, with his baby beet salad, wild salmon entree, and banana cream pie.

Details

Duck confit: $11

Bruschetta: $9

Skate wing: $19

Pork chop: $19

602-256-0223.
Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

628 East Adams Street (Silva House at Heritage Square)

In any case, I'm pulling for Circa 1900, if only because Phoenix deserves more from its metropolitan center than alimentary alter kockers such as the Compass Room, Pizzeria Bianco, and dear old Séamus McCaffrey's. If Circa's masters make a few improvements, blessed longevity should be their ultimate fate.

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