Gomo Often

It's the bomb, in a good way

I could hear the sizzling meat platters coming before they arrived at the table. Every bite of bulgogi was rich, with a sweet flavor from the marinade. Tender barbecued short ribs (johk-kalbi) and smoky chicken (dahk bulgogi) were presented atop piles of sliced white onions, which cooked down into caramelized sweetness by the end of the meal.

And my friend's plateful of glass noodles (chap chae) was so big we laughed in amazement. This is an accessible dish that's easily as craveable as lo mein at a Chinese restaurant — and, in a better world, it would be just as common — so I wish Gomo's offered a half-portion. In any case, it was easy to love, with luscious clear noodles, thin slices of beef, slivers of carrot, onion, and zucchini, and meaty cuts of black Chinese mushroom.

There wasn't much in the way of dessert here, but there was an impressive list of boba iced tea drinks — all the rage with Asian teens — that were sweet enough to qualify. I tried a creamy, not-too-sweet red bean smoothie, rich Thai tea, sweet melon tea, and smooth taro milk tea. All of the drinks can be ordered with or without boba, as well as several flavors of fruit jelly. Like everything else on the menu, they were quite filling.

Food as far as the eye can see: Bring an appetite to Gomo's.
Jackie Mercandetti
Food as far as the eye can see: Bring an appetite to Gomo's.

Details

Potstickers: $7.95

Bulgogi lunch plate: $7.95

Seafood tofu soup: $8.95

BBQ short ribs: $14.95

480-753-6622.
Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.

5965 West Ray Road, #18, Chandler

While the drinks offered relief from spicy flavors, I have to mention that Gomo's does not go overboard on the heat factor. Some folks may shy away from Korean food because they expect a too-hot surprise. Kimchi dishes? Yes — spicy, as predicted. The "spicy pork stew"? Peppery as hell, and really delicious. But nothing caught me off guard, and when I asked for medium spice, that's what I got. Korean flavors are complex, and they go well beyond red chile.

Someday, they just might catch on.

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