By New Times
By Robrt L. Pela
By Lauren Saria and Heather Hoch
By Deborah Sussman
By Robrt L. Pela and Amy Silverman
By Kathleen Vanesian
By Eric Schaefer
By Heather Hoch
Wright's let monkfish finally transcend its reputation as poor-man's lobster, serving up poached fish that was more tender and flavorful than lobster could ever hope to be. (Granted, it got a boost from lobster aioli and saffron foam.) I loved the shallot tart and sweet, delicate mussels that accompanied it. And as for the aged buffalo loin, it had the kind of seared, caramelized exterior that needed no embellishment. That said, it was great with a dab of rosemary jus and forkfuls of white-cheddar mashed Yukon potatoes.
While none of the dishes resembled architecture, one dessert did remind me of abstract art: the "Elegance," a dessert vignette of moist hazelnut cake, orange marmalade in a pastry spoon, prickly-pear sorbet in a doll-size bowl made of sugar, and assorted other sweets. Mascarpone cheesecake was surprisingly dense and almost fudgy, served with roasted strawberries and vanilla pistachio ice cream. And the soufflés were outstanding, served hot and moist and ready to be deflated with a spoon. The best one was a seasonal peppermint flavor, filled with melted bits of candy and served with a light chocolate crème anglaise.
2400 E. Missouri Ave.
Phoenix, AZ 85016
Region: East Phoenix
602-955-6600, »web link.
Hours: Monday through Saturday, 6 to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Wrights at the Biltmore,
2400 East Missouri Avenue, 602-955-6600, www.arizonabiltmore.com. Hours: Monday through Saturday, 6 to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.
From now on, if someone brings up Frank Lloyd Wright, I'll think tarts instead of Taliesin, foie gras instead of Fallingwater. It's probably heresy to say this, but American Lodge Cuisine completely eclipses its venerable surroundings. And for people who care more about fine dining than art deco, that's a very good thing.