Getting Cocky

I prefer lamb in its juicier incarnations — a seared chop, a braised shank — but the garlicky palomillo of marinated lamb was a tasty variation on a Cuban steak dish. Thinly pounded, pan-seared fillets got a savory boost from a colorful stir-fry of onions, Japanese eggplant, and peppers. Meanwhile, the "Mar y Tierra" was more to my liking, with melt-in-your-mouth slices of jerk-marinated grilled rib eye, and tempura-fried shrimp. And the Hunan-style whole fish — a crispy, fried striped bass filled with a spicy, gingery mix of red pepper, onion, and crabmeat — was as delicious as it was dramatic, its open mouth and flared fins looking like the creature leapt right out of the wok and onto the platter.

By the end of the meal, I regretted gorging on a side dish of lobster-boniato mashed potatoes. They were sinfully sweet and buttery, but they took up room in my stomach that should've been saved for real desserts — in particular, the Mexican doughnuts that made my dining companions grin like greedy kids. The hot little balls of brioche, coated in cinnamon and sugar, burst with molten toffee when you bit into them. Amazing.

I didn't like the plantain cake at all — it was dry, and not all that sweet — but I'd happily eat a bowlful of the vanilla rum ice cream that came with it. "Bay of Pigs," a banana split assembled to look like a funny face, could've fed the whole table. And the creamy flan was simply outstanding, perfumed with vanilla, lemongrass, and kaffir leaves.

Figures — it was the one dish we ordered that wasn't big enough. Next time I visit Asia de Cuba, I'm ordering one all for myself, even if I have to wait an hour and 15 minutes to get my table.