The overarching concept at radioMILANO is sharable small plates all the items I just described, except the desserts, are listed as "appetizing entrees." And if you're in the mood for some light nibbles to go along with your cocktails, that's fine. But be prepared for portion sizes that are all over the place, in terms of sharing. Two people will have a much easier time than three or more people trying to divvy up some of these petite dishes.
As a result, dinner at radioMILANO is much pricier than it looks because you'll need to order at least two items apiece to make it out the door without a rumbling stomach. Dinner at Postino, right across the street, seems cheap in comparison, with that awesome bruschetta and substantial, entree-sized salads. Here, I'm hung up on the $12 "meatballs with some spaghetti," which is, literally, three meatballs and a few strands of pasta. How in the world anyone can share that with dignity is beyond me. (I do have a sense of humor, and spaghetti makes a cheeky garnish, but for that amount of money, the joke's on me for ordering it.)
Jackie Mercandetti
Retro redux: At radioMILANO, old-fashioned snacks like deviled eggs share the menu with Italian-inspired dishes such as meatballs with spaghetti.
Location Info
Details
Celery caesar salad: $9
Sautéed clams: $15
Polpetone: $14
Chocolate budino: $7
602-956-6600
»web link.
Hours: Daily, 5 to 11 p.m.
radioMILANO, 3950 East Campbell Street
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Don't get me wrong. I think this restaurant is a fine addition to the neighborhood mix. But for the moment, radioMILANO still needs some fine-tuning.