By Heather Hoch
By Eric Schaefer
By New Times
By Rachel Miller
By Eric Schaefer
By Heather Hoch and Lauren Saria
By Robrt L. Pela
By Heather Hoch
But there's one new restaurant whose success I'm betting on, if only for the local food brain trust behind it.
I can't review this place. Not to say that Noca, foodie-about-town Eliot Wexler and chef Chris Curtiss' new restaurant, isn't newsworthy. It just hasn't opened yet.
As of press time, Wexler says Noca (which stands for "North of Camelback") will launch next Tuesday, July 8, although I won't be completely shocked if that gets pushed out. For the longest time, his mantra was, "December One. December One." I've heard a lot about this — I've followed Wexler (we met through Chow Bella, then became friends, another reason I won't review Noca) through this whole process. Negotiating a lease, working with contractors, passing inspections, and finessing too many details has led to him opening in the middle of the summer, in the midst of a lame economy. Sigh.
But Wexler seems unfazed and says he's doing it all with a little help from his friends. Turns out, I'm not the only pal he's made since arriving here 16 years ago from Chicago. Among his group of investors, Wexler, a stock trader, counts his college roommate, some childhood pals, and successful friends of friends (including a part-owner of the Arizona Diamondbacks). Because anyone who meets him soon finds out how food-obsessed he is, it's no surprise that people were lining up to support his new enterprise. Not to mention other similarly one-track-minded food folks in town.
Wexler, a stout, easygoing fellow with dark, curly hair, has managed to parlay all sorts of personal encounters into this eatery. In fact, the urge to start a restaurant struck him in the middle of dinner at Binkley's, a Cave Creek dining destination where a six-course tasting menu runs $89.
"It was probably about my second course — a seared piece of foie gras with, I wanna say, cranberry bread pudding," he says.
Inspired, Wexler asked chef Kevin Binkley for a lesson on how to sear foie gras. Binkley agreed, and when Wexler showed up at noon that Friday, Binkley threw him an apron.
"I didn't sear foie gras that day, but I stayed 'til 1 a.m.," he says.
Wexler had no culinary credentials, no training. Still, Binkley welcomed him into the kitchen, where he continued to help out, unpaid, for about a year. "Kevin was ridiculously generous to me, and let me into that world," he adds.
During that time, the two planned to open a restaurant together. Ultimately, though, Binkley wanted to open another place in Cave Creek, while Wexler preferred Phoenix. They parted ways, but remain good friends.
Wexler's also friendly with Sea Saw chef Nobuo Fukuda, whose open kitchen, surrounded by a counter where customers can sit and watch the staff create each intricate dish, is the most eye-opening dining experience in town.
"Sit in front of him enough times — and I did — you can ask questions and learn from him," Wexler says of Fukuda. In the same way, Wexler got to know sous chef Geoff Reed, who works right alongside the Japanese chef.
Wexler looked long and hard for a talented chef, and he didn't limit his options to Arizona. When it came down to it, though, Chris Curtiss was right underneath his nose, working at downtown's now-defunct Circa 1900. Reed passed him Curtiss' résumé, and Wexler was eager to check out his cooking.
No wonder. A San Francisco native, Curtiss had worked as a sous chef at some of the Bay Area's top-rated restaurants before moving to Phoenix: Fifth Floor, Charles Nob Hill (with French Laundry alum Ron Siegel, who'd just become the first American to win Iron Chef in Japan), and Masa's.
Wexler later realized that he'd already met Curtiss a few years earlier, at Binkley's. Upon their second meeting, they clicked as if they'd known each other a long time. Besides sharing the same attitude about food, they have the same birthday.
Things started to fall into place after Wexler brought Curtiss on board. He'd already found a good location for Noca — in the former Eleve, at 32nd Street and Camelback, which he purchased from Michael Mishkin.
Curtiss recruited his Circa 1900 sous chef, Logan Stephenson, who'd previously worked at Fiamma. Frank Schneider, former general manager of Mary Elaine's, signed on to work at Noca after The Phoenician's famous fine-dining spot closed this spring. A bartender and a server from Mary Elaine's will join him. Robert Stempkowski, who'd also worked at Binkley's, and whose Tempe barbecue joint, Urban Campfire, is on hiatus, will be a server at Noca, too.
And most recently, chef German Sega — a sous chef at Sea Saw before his brief stint at Luc's — came highly recommended by Fukuda. Wexler says Sega will help in the kitchen in the mornings, and play with mixology as well.
Wexler and Curtiss have been sourcing ingredients for Noca as meticulously as they've cherry-picked the staff. Curtiss has seafood connections in San Francisco, and Fukuda is also sharing his Japanese fish suppliers. They're getting natural meats and prime beef from a family-run shop in Chicago, as well as organic produce from Bob McClendon (another Fukuda introduction) and Pat Duncan.