I appreciate the article and can believe that the restaurant lacks decorative charm (I have seen and walked through it); however, I think that the writer lacks experience in the Spanish culture to give it an accurate criticism.
I lived in Spain briefly, married a Spanish man, and return frequently to that country that I love. I have not yet had a chance to try this restaurant, but one thing's for sure... If he had to flag the waiters down to get service then it was an accurate portrayal of true Spain. That is the cultural norm. It is not a service-oriented culture like the US, rather, my husband finds it rude when wait staff regularly stops by, interrupting the conversation to ask "How's everything?"
I cannot comment on the food, nor can I say whether or not it's a restaurant in which I would spend my time, but I can say that I would prefer to have someone critique the restaurant that has experienced Spain. Why can't we have a no-frills Spanish cafe that doesn�t overdo the baroque architecture and mix in the American culture? This to me seems a more accurate portrayal of "imagining" Spain.