Thin, tender ribbons of homemade tagliatelle were very good with juicy chunks of osso buco, fava beans, and shards of pecorino. But in comparison, the simple four-cheese ravioli was undistinguished, and pedestrian at best.

Just for variety's sake, I tried some of the signature plates as well — nothing topped the gnocchi, but a plate of plump grilled sausage, fingerling potatoes and red peppers tossed in red sauce was flavorful, while breaded garlic shrimp Caprese was the shrimp equivalent of ordinary chicken Parm, slathered in sauce and melted mozzarella. Nothing exciting.

Old-fashioned wood-fired pizzas and a relaxed atmosphere have made Tommy V's Osteria Pizzeria a popular new spot on Camelback.
Jamie Peachey
Old-fashioned wood-fired pizzas and a relaxed atmosphere have made Tommy V's Osteria Pizzeria a popular new spot on Camelback.

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Tommy V's Osteria Pizzeria

3225 E. Camelback Road
Phoenix, AZ 85018

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: East Phoenix

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Panzanella: $8
Let's Meat pizza: $15
Margherita pizza: $10
Gnocchi: $13
Tommy V's Osteria Pizzeria
3225 East Camelback Road
602-955-8900
www.tomasos.com.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m., Monday through Friday; 1 to 10 p.m., Saturday and Sunday

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But as far as entrée salads go, the pulled herb-roasted chicken was great — a toss of chicken pieces, radicchio, endive, capers, tomatoes, olives, pistachios, and creamy herb dressing, all heaped on large leaves of Bibb lettuce. Surprisingly filling for a salad.

Nobody's breaking new ground with the desserts here — I tasted a decent cheesecake, a cocoa-dusted chocolate gelato "truffle," and a Neapolitan sampler of Berto's gelato — although they were on par with what you'd find at countless other casual pizzerias.

For folks in the neighborhood, Tommy V's undoubtedly hits the sweet spot for affordable food in a family-friendly setting — a timeless formula for success.

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1 comments
Sum_Ergo_Edo
Sum_Ergo_Edo

No build-your-own pizza? No visit from me, then. Not that I would patronize any Tomaso's establishment after the gag-worthy meal I had last time.

 
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