Hula’s Modern Tiki Is a Tropic Blunder

Comments (0) By Wynter Holden Thursday, Dec 10 2009

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Photos by Jamie Peachey

Sadly, Hula's puts style before substance.

Location Info

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Hula's Modern Tiki

4700 N. Central Ave.
Phoenix, AZ 85012

Category: Bars/Clubs

Region: Central Phoenix

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Hula's Modern Tiki

4700 North Central Avenue

602-265-TIKI
www.hulasmoderntiki.com

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to close Friday and Saturday; 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday.

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We fared better with dessert. There's no printed dessert menu, but Hula's offers a few standards mixed with daily specials. Key lime pie was rich and creamy, with a heavy graham crust that balanced the tart filling. The chocolate brownie was slightly underdone, which made it super-moist and delicious. My favorite was the macadamia nut ice cream sundae special. It was subtle and light, with a slight saltiness that paired well with juicy caramelized pineapple tidbits.

With so many local eateries to choose from, quality ingredients and well-executed dishes are crucial to a new restaurant's success. For Hula's, that means focusing on more than just looks. A restaurant cannot survive on tiki glasses and sleek retro décor alone, any more than Rachael Ray can entice true food connoisseurs with made-up words, boring recipes, and a winning smile.