If you're a carnivore, you'll have a field day at Hillstone, even if you just stick with a simple French dip sandwich. This one was pretty much perfect: a crisp, soft, French roll stuffed with juicy, thinly sliced prime rib and a slick of mayo, served with a warm cup of beefy jus.
On the extreme end of the meat-lust spectrum, the Hawaiian rib eye was a generous portion of beef with a flavorful char on the outside and juices dripping as I sliced it. A baked potato, laden with bacon, cheese, and scallions, was a wonderful starchy partner for it. Likewise, a rack of first-rate barbecued pork ribs, as big as the plate and deliciously exhausting, was so tender I could just pull the bones clean out — no gnawing necessary.
Jackie Mercandetti
Cool, juicy mango contrasts with hot, succulent beef in Hillstone's Thai steak and noodle salad.
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Hillstone
2650 East Camelback Road
602-957-9700
www.hillstone.com/hillstone
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday
Tortilla soup: $6
French dip: $18
Thai steak and noodle salad: $16
BBQ pork ribs: $27
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Given the hefty portions of such hearty food, the thought of dessert at Hillstone feels like the grueling end of a marathon, not a sprint. Share one, I say — a dense, rich five-nut brownie with vanilla ice cream, or a warm, sticky plate of apple cobbler is best enjoyed with a friend, or three.