Spicy chicken enchiladas weren't the predictable version rolled up in tortillas and smothered in sauce and melted cheese, but rather a lighter, layered dish that was a cross between chilaquiles and lasagna — very tasty.

Another traditional dish got a lighter spin, and gratefully so: a fat chile relleno was roasted, not fried, and not oozing with melted cheese. Instead, the deep emerald poblano contained a colorful jumble of spinach, zucchini, mushrooms, spicy tomato sauce, and a judicious amount of crumbled Oaxaca cheese.

Sides came separately, in portions big enough for two. Fluffy, tomatoey rice and spicy, cheese-topped black beans were worth it, but bland sliced potatoes with cheese and peppers were not.

The upscale Mexican cuisine at Taberna Mexicana has enough interesting flourishes to keep from veering into predictable territory.
Jackie Mercandetti
The upscale Mexican cuisine at Taberna Mexicana has enough interesting flourishes to keep from veering into predictable territory.

Likewise, I'd gladly take an encore of the wonderful cheesecake flan with Kahlua, but would rather forget about the Mexican bread pudding, a huge, unappetizing brown heap.

Taberna Mexicana is still a diamond in the rough, but it shouldn't take much to polish it up into a nice culinary gem.

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Debaznow
Debaznow

I had a dreadful meal there.

 
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