"Puerto Ricans don't do spicy," said Rivera, "but you can add hot sauce if you want."
With one exception, appetizers at El New Yorican are fried and priced at $3 and under, making it easy to start with several and fill up fast. There are fried plantains, prepared as flattened chips or sliced, sweet, and glistening; the tamale-like pasteles; and cocoons of pastelillos, thin, bumpy pastry skins filled with steaming ground beef that I wished had a stronger presence of onion and garlic. Ditto for the alcappurria, in which the meat inhabits a long, fried fritter stick made with grated green bananas.
Jackie Mercandetti
Cocina criolla, or Creole cooking, makes for tasty Puerto Rican dishes at El New Yorican.
Location Info
Details
El New Yorican
2714 West Thomas Road
602-314-4330
Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday
Mofongo camarones: $10.99
Pollo frito: $9.99
Pernil: $9.99
Plantanos maduros: $2
Related Content
More About
It is said that Puerto Ricans adore chicken, and this is evident in entrées of pollo frito and pollo guisado. The former is chicken fried without batter, generously rubbed with adobo, and lightly seasoned with onion, garlic, and salt. The latter is a stew thick with peppers, onions, and chicken meat still clinging to parts of the skeleton (Rivera says this is purposeful, done specifically for "bone suckers").
Skip the bistec encebollado (sautéed steak with onions) and opt instead for the aforementioned camarones en salsa criolla or the classic Puerto Rican pork roast called pernil, a value-size heap of tender, slow-roasted pork shoulder covered in onions (a Christmas tradition in the Rivera family, he says).
And don't miss out on the flavorful side of habichuela rojas (stewed red beans with chunks of potato and sofrito, the thick, herbed, and peppery vegetable sauce found in many of the dishes). Along with white rice or yellow rice with pigeon peas, it's a hearty meal in itself.
I asked Rivera, given his nomadic ways and penchant for experiencing the new and different, how long the Valley can expect to enjoy El New Yorican.
He laughs and says, "I'm not lettin' go. This is headquarters. This is home."