Sandwich lovers should skip the gordita (the same flavors can be had, and better, as a huarache) and move into two-handed tortas. My favorite selection is the pierna (roasted pork leg). The meat is thin and moist with a flavor like bacon, and, thanks to melted cheese, avocado, and lettuce, the whole thing tastes like the Mexican equivalent of a ham and cheese sandwich.
There is a very good pambazo, too. More or less a version of the French dip, its soft white bread is soaked in a smoky red chile sauce instead of au jus, and the roast beef is replaced with potatoes, chorizo, lettuce, crema, and cheese. A quick trip to the griddle after it has been stuffed tightens the ingredients into one monstrous, hot mass — one that, for the timid, will require a knife and fork. For those using their hands, expect red-orange stained fingers, the tip of the nose smeared with filling, and most likely, a soiled shirt.
Jackie Mercandetti
El Rinconcito serves exceptional, real-deal Mexico City street food in a no-frills setting.
Location Info
Details
El Rinconcito del D.F.
8901 North 12th Street
602-943-5933
Hours: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily
Huarache de suadero: $7
Tostada de pata: $4
Quesadilla de chicharron prensado: $5.50
Pambazo: $3.75
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The only dessert at El Rinconcito is gelatina de flor, a paperweight-like dome of clear gelatin with a single, brightly colored flower made of fondant trapped inside. A staff member makes these labor-intensive treats, injecting the gelatin with edible colorings to make the flower. If you have had one before, you know that they are known more for their looks than their whisper-sweet taste and are typically served on special occasions.
Having never tried a gelatina de flor, I considered this occasion special enough, and pointed to the crudely made posters advertising them on the wall, asking my server (in broken Spanish) if they were available. Beaming, she responded (in broken English) that they were. She quickly returned with a tray of the brightly colored flower bubbles, motioning for me to select my favorite.
And when did I know El Rinconcito was my kind of restaurant? The moment happened after my server placed my gelatina de flor down in front of me and started quietly singing a song in Spanish, clapping her hands while nearby diners looked on and smiled.
It wasn't my birthday, but it sure as hell felt like it.