The chicken also should come under consideration when ordering one of Ncounter's salads. Five of the six options feature it (the only one that doesn't is the Tuna Apple-Walnut), and oddly enough, there are no non-meat selections in the bunch. There is the Original Chop, featuring neat rows of arugula, cranberries, corn, pecans, chicken, and red pepper with a side of light basil pesto dressing. It's satisfying at first, but after a few bites, the Chop's lack of lively ingredients quickly turns the meal into the law of diminishing returns. It is, however, better than the Fusion Chopped Chicken, an item whose overall flavor seems best suited for a hotel banquet hall. Featuring a chunk of cabbage covered in a colorful yet chaotic array of sliced mango, peanuts, cubes of chicken, crispy noodles, and toasted sesame seeds, the taste is more pre-packaged than fresh, and a strong peanut dressing prevails throughout.
Ncounter's décor is clean and contemporary. Its black, gray, and orange color palette, slatted walls, and large windows surround a high-ceilinged room with a concrete floor, wood tables, and rural-themed artwork. Seating options include the dining area as well as an outdoor patio and a small bar serving coffee, tea, and a few cocktails. When the restaurant is busy, and the sounds of the '80s or this year's pop hits mix with the din of conversation from students, visiting parents, or Tempe business types, the seating isn't as much an issue as getting to the ordering counter, where guests entering the restaurant are forced to weave in and out of tables (and seated diners) and to the back of the room where the line is doubled up and moved to a smaller and more cramped section off to the side.
Jackie Mercandetti
Among fairly standard breakfast and lunch items, Ncounter's French toast is one of the better choices.
Location Info
Details
Ncounter
310 South Mill Avenue, Tempe
480-968-9288
www.ncounter.com
Hours: 7 a.m. to 3:05 p.m. daily
French toast: $6.50
Hot Juan omelet: $8
The Cobb sandwich: $8.50
Original Chop salad: $8.50
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Ncounter's counter service is friendly, and the staff does a good job delivering orders and clearing tables in a timely manner. It's the area of the business that needs the least attention.
The biggest issue at Ncounter is the food. And my hope is that this Mill Avenue restaurant can make the changes needed to set it apart from the neighboring chains, to give the street a taste of what a locally owned restaurant can do, and to give its diners what they so desperately deserve: anything but average.