The best dishes at Lucky's may be the variety of meats, and offal lovers should take note that getting one or more included in a Chef's Special, at least initially, means having to ask after them — usually to the surprise and delight of Kitty and Kwok. You'll know you've arrived when Kitty brings out an appetizer of bright red pieces of crispy and fatty fried pork intestine without ever being asked.

Before then, you may be treated to pieces of beef and slippery, chewy tendon over cabbage in an anise-kissed sauce for something akin to a Sunday pot roast dinner by way of a Cantonese kitchen. There also is very good oxtail and gelatinous pig trotters that, when nibbled, sucked on, and gnawed at in the grips of your chopsticks, could very well cause Kitty to cluck in approval as she glides by. But the most interesting offal offering — and the one you'll most wish could be chased with a Chinese beer — is a porky and pickled concoction of chewy pieces of pig's stomach and crunchy, sour vegetables like peppers and onions. Delicious.

It is rare to hear music playing at Lucky's, especially around dinnertime, when the sparse but tidy restaurant fills up with the sounds of large groups of diners sliding into booths and taking seats at large tables while catching up on the day's events. Some talk to each other, others to Kitty, and still others to Kwok, who darts back and forth from the kitchen to the dining area with an energy you wouldn't expect most 60-year-old men to have.

Cantonese dominates the menu here, but the cooking isn't altered to suit a Westerner's palate.
Jackie Mercandetti
Cantonese dominates the menu here, but the cooking isn't altered to suit a Westerner's palate.

Location Info

Map

Lucky's King Wah

4306 W. Northern Ave.
Glendale, AZ 85301

Category: Restaurant > Asian

Region: Glendale

Details

Lucky's King Wah
4306 West Northern Avenue, Glendale
623-937-3960
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday; 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday< br />
Sing High-style chicken: $6.50
Sour vegetables with pig stomach: $8.50
Lamb brisket pot with tofu skin: $13.99
Oxtail pot: $15.99

"We have two kinds of customers," Kitty says. "Regular customers who have been following Kwok for years and new ones who have come into the restaurant for the first time." Then, without missing a beat, she sets a fork down in front of my dining companion, who is clumsily fumbling with her chopsticks, and says, "The new customers are who we do the Chef's Special for. We want them to come back."

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