The misses are few and far between, and when they fall short, it usually is related to a lack of innovation, not poor execution. Wood-grilled artichoke hearts, an appetizer on the full menu, deliver a knockout punch before the main event. At $13, the dish is no bargain, but the artichokes are delicious; what they lack in originality they make up for in rustic appeal. The same could be said for grilled and chilled shrimp: nothing particularly novel here, but delicious nonetheless and perfectly executed. More inspired but less successful was the warm kale and roasted garlic dip, a theoretically healthier alternative to the classic spinach dip. Although well balanced, it was dry and the pita chips came straight from a bag. Sometimes it's best not to reinterpret the classics. And to appease the less adventurous is a perfectly acceptable roasted chicken, straightforward and moist but not nearly as interesting or nuanced as heritage birds, and it plays to a lower common denominator.

Country fried chicken, a seemingly appealing breakfast combination of fried chicken on a buttermilk biscuit with gravy, and topped with a fried egg, would have been better if the gravy were even remotely delicious. Caramel apple French toast is exponentially more delectable than standard fare, and sweet caramelized apples made it almost dessert-like. There also is bagel and lox, available in the restaurant and the coffee bar, using dough from Tempe's Venezia bakery that is proofed and baked on-site at The Henry. Mind you, the bagel wouldn't pass muster with even the most casual New Yorker, but it's still not a bad way to start the day. "Health food" has worked its way into Fox menus ever since the company launched True Foods Kitchen, and it's represented here in the form of a quinoa breakfast burrito and the Flower Child Scramble, with kale, mushrooms, and roasted squash. Kale and quinoa — you have to hand it to the team at Fox for managing to get almost every trendy food of the moment onto one section of the menu.

Thai peanut black cod at The Henry
Jackie Mercandetti
Thai peanut black cod at The Henry

Location Info

Map

The Henry

4455 E. Camelback Road
Phoenix, AZ 85018

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: East Phoenix

Details

The Henry
4455 East Camelback Road
602-429-8020
www.foxrc.com/restaurants/the-henry
11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday; 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday; 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday

Wood-grilled artichoke hearts: $13
Grilled and chilled shrimp: $15
Thai peanut black cod: $24
Mediterranean branzino: $27

With each of my visits to The Henry I wondered whether Sam Fox might have been trying to channel Balthazar, the iconic brasserie in New York City. Although The Henry isn't French, it — like Balthazar — serves three meals a day and is the cornerstone of a larger ownership group. Balthazar is, in many ways, the definitive SoHo neighborhood restaurant. I once managed to eat breakfast, lunch, and dinner at Balthazar, all in the same day. Make no mistake about it: The Henry is great, but it's no Balthazar. However, from a functional perspective — and the fact that they are both packed from opening to close — they are eerily similar. And that's a high compliment. The Henry isn't just a restaurant that you're happy to have in your neighborhood. It makes you want to move neighborhoods to be closer to it.

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11 comments
Tom Lucas
Tom Lucas

I like Sam Fox Restaurants..

Patty McDonald Calvano
Patty McDonald Calvano

It's Okay. They couldn't even cook over medium eggs.... Come on. Over rated like most fox restaurants

Lisa Bell
Lisa Bell

Love this dish! I heart Fox RC!

Chris LaBarre
Chris LaBarre

Overpriced! Food is ok but not near as good as they would want you to believe. Average. Not even a good steak on the menu. Just a thin flank steak for like $30 bucks. No thanks.

James Spencer
James Spencer

I have some friends who tried to go yesterday for brunch, apparently Blacks, Mexicans and Biracial couples were not welcomed... One likened it to a "Jim Crow" experience... Shameful and Distasteful.

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jliven23
jliven23

The breakfast, lunch, dinner comment is spot on. We walk there often and the place just puts me in a better mood....and that's due to the neighborhood feel. He even has a very small sign at the walking path from the street south of the restaurant welcoming neighbors. Nothing gaudy, just a small sign that makes you feel less like you're sneaking through someone else's property and more like they were expecting you.

 
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