It's a pretty easy rule of thumb: Eat ethnic food at places frequented by people of that ethnicity. That's usually a good sign, no matter what kind of restaurant you're checking out. On weekends, Chandler's China King transforms into a culinary mecca for homesick Chinese, who show up in groups with three generations in tow. Squint hard enough, and you may almost convince yourself that this is Chinatown in San Francisco or New York. And besides, if this dim sum gets the approval of Chinese grannies, we think it deserves a try. Truly, the offerings here (more than 50 in all) are delicious. Flag down one of the waitresses pushing metal steam carts from table to table, and you never know what you'll find. It could be something for the hardcore dim sum fan — say, sweet steamed chicken feet — or something more accessible, like sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaves, or barbecued pork buns. There's no pressure, of course. Feel free to wait it out for the next cart, or to help yourself to as many plates as you can handle. You'll go from dim sum dabbler to devotee in no time.