The first brisk days of the year here come after so many torturous, white-hot months that they're truly cause for celebration. But where? Sipping hot cocoa poolside hardly evokes the spirit of the season, and those damned palm trees can really spoil an autumnal mood. The Farm is the place. Order lunch -- any of its hot soups is always a good choice -- on a picnic bench in a beautiful pecan grove. The trees provide all the atmosphere you need, with their leaves changing colors and falling into piles that are actually big enough to jump in. If you spent any childhood years in the East or Midwest, you're wiping away a tear right now, just thinking about it. And don't forget to bring enough friends for that impromptu, Kennedyesque game of touch football.