One school of thought says children ought not to be taken to a "real" restaurant until they reach, say, the age of 12. Naturally, the members of that out-of-touch school probably don't have kids. The alternative to eating out just isn't practical in this rush-around-like-crazy world, but here's a little secret if you need to escape the artery-clogging hell of fast food: Get to this ever-popular eating and drinking establishment by 5 p.m. (you might get trampled by the Thirsty Ones after that), and you and the kidlings will have a fine time. The service is uniformly exceptional, and the kitchen churns out the grub faster than you'd expect. It's usually loud, so the occasional shrieks and moans that are part of the program won't bother dining neighbors. The booths are roomy, and the cutlery comes rolled into cloth napkins (fear not the blades!). Oh, and the kids' burger, which we have tasted on occasion, goes for a mere $5, and tastes great.